Did you know that Stanisław Wyspiański’s largest and most famous stained glass — “God the Father — Be!” — fills the entire Gothic window above the entrance of the Franciscan church and changes its appearance with the weather and light? That’s just one of the many surprises waiting for people strolling through Kraków. This guide will take you step by step in the footsteps of Wyspiański and Kraków’s Art Nouveau: where to look, how to plan the route, what to see inside, and where to eat along the way. If you like, at the end you’ll find a practical FAQ and suggested half-day and full-day routes.
Kraków is full of places connected to Wyspiański and the Art Nouveau aesthetic. Here are the most reliable spots I recommend seeing:
- National Museum (Main Building) — Poland’s largest collection of Wyspiański works, including designs for Wawel stained glass and numerous drawings and portraits.
- Church of the Franciscan Fathers (All Saints Square) — home to the monumental stained glass 'God the Father — Be!' and a series of windows showing the elements and saints designed by Wyspiański.
- St. Mary’s Basilica (Main Market Square) — a place where Wyspiański collaborated on polychromes and where you can find stained glass and ornamental motifs bridging historicism and Art Nouveau.
- Stained Glass Workshop and Museum (al. Krasińskiego) — the historic workshop that produced works based on Wyspiański’s designs; today you can visit, watch how stained glass is made, and see related exhibits.
- Medical Society House (ul. Radziwiłłowska) — interiors and details designed by Wyspiański, including the characteristic staircase and decorative motifs.
- Wyspiański Pavilion (All Saints Square 2) — a contemporary space referencing the artist’s work, with realized stained-glass pieces and a close-up model of the famous “God the Father” window.
- Biographical spots: the family home on Krupnicza Street (historic address) and other points on the Wyspiański Trail, which are worth combining with a walk through the Old Town.
Wyspiański experimented with form and scale: he transformed the traditional division of stained glass into small panels, often treating an entire window as a single, unified composition. In his works, plant motifs mingle with monumental, figurative representations. An interesting detail is that some of the glass used for his windows was imported (for example from Austria), which contributed to the richness of colors and to effects that shift with the intensity of light. For many visitors the biggest surprise is how much a stained glass impression changes depending on the time of day and the angle of sunlight — sometimes colors suddenly spring to life, other times more muted tones dominate.
Franciscan Church — first view the 'God the Father — Be!' window on the façade from a distance, then step inside to notice other Wyspiański compositions: the four elements and figures of Blessed Salomea and St. Francis. Pay attention to the plant background in the windows — Wyspiański treated it almost like a botanical catalogue, a result of his long fascination with plant forms.
St. Mary’s Basilica — although the interior reflects the work of many artists, Wyspiański and Mehoffer introduced solutions that were modern for their time, blending Gothic with Art Nouveau motifs. Above the choir and in the nave you’ll find brightly colored stained glass and polychromes that refer to floral motifs.
National Museum (Main Building) — be sure to see the stained-glass designs for Wawel Cathedral (including historical figures such as Casimir the Great, Henry II the Pious, and St. Stanislaus), sketches, and theatre props. The designs show how ideas were formed before being realized in workshops.
Stained Glass Workshop and Museum — located in a historic workshop, this is where the craft of stained glass links history with practice. Check visiting days in advance — it’s not always open daily and often requires a guided visit.
Medical Society House — take a moment to admire the staircase and the balustrade details with chestnut motifs; this is a great example of how Wyspiański designed functional interiors combining utility with decoration.
Wyspiański Pavilion — a modern homage to the artist with models and installations; it’s a particularly pleasant place to study the details of 'God the Father' in model form and to better understand the composition by seeing it at a smaller scale.
Start: All Saints Square — view the Wyspiański Pavilion and the model of the stained glass. Then walk to the façade of the Franciscan Church and enter the interior.
Next stop: National Museum (Main Building) — a quick look at the stained-glass designs and rooms with Wyspiański works.
Walk through the Planty or along Floriańska Street to the Main Market Square — pause briefly at Jama Michalika, the historic artistic café frequented by Wyspiański and his circle.
At the Market: St. Mary’s Basilica — tour the interior and examine the polychromes and stained glass. Finish with coffee or lunch at one of the restaurants near the Square.
Begin with biographical stops: Krupnicza Street (Wyspiański’s family home), then Kanoniczna Street and the Wawel area — make short stops at locations on the Wyspiański Trail as you go.
Visit the National Museum in more depth, dedicating time to the designs for Wawel Cathedral and exhibitions devoted to the artist.
In the afternoon plan a visit to the Stained Glass Workshop and Museum (check guided tour schedules) and stop by the Medical Society House to see interiors designed by Wyspiański.
In the evening return to the Market for dinner at a restaurant serving Polish or fusion cuisine and enjoy the city at sunset.
Check opening hours and visiting rules before you go. Churches usually have Masses and services at set times, so access to interiors can be time-limited. Museums often change hours seasonally and when temporary exhibitions are on.
Photography in churches and museums: many places allow photos without flash, but rules vary — when in doubt ask at the entrance. Stained glass often photographs best from an angle, rather than facing direct sunlight, to better capture color.
Accessibility: most museums try to be accessible to people with reduced mobility, but historic churches sometimes have steps and narrow passages. If you’re visiting with a stroller or have mobility limitations, plan ahead and check the accessibility of each site.
Dress: when entering sacred spaces remember to dress respectfully (covered shoulders, not very short skirts). It’s both a matter of respect and often a parish rule.
Best time of day to view stained glass: to see vibrant colors with strong backlighting, choose morning or afternoon hours depending on the window orientation; some windows look best in the morning, others at sunset. Try looking at a window from several spots inside the nave.
Along the route around the Market and the Planty it’s worth visiting Jama Michalika — the historic artistic café where Young Poland creators gathered; it’s perfect for a short break and to soak up the period atmosphere. For a classic, well-reviewed lunch try restaurants at the Market such as Wierzynek or Szara, which combine local character with high-quality cuisine. If you prefer atmospheric cellar interiors with traditional Polish dishes, consider Pod Aniołami.
For coffee and desserts I recommend local favorites: Camelot (near the Market) and several specialty coffee shops outside the very center — great places to rest after sightseeing.
If you’re looking for a comfortable stay near the monuments, well-rated central hotels include Hotel Stary or Hotel Copernicus — both offer high standards and an elegant, historic character. For a cozy, boutique feel consider smaller guesthouses or apartments within the Old Town.
- Wyspiański designed not only stained glass and paintings but also furniture, textiles, and theatre scenery — his approach to design was comprehensive.
- Some stained-glass projects were the result of collaboration with local workshops capable of realizing his technically demanding sketches; in Kraków there were workshops that executed many commissions for the artist.
- In the Wyspiański Pavilion you can find tactile models of a stained glass created so that blind or partially sighted visitors can explore the composition through texture and interpret colors with symbolic markers. It’s a good example of how modern presentation of heritage combines accessibility with education.
Confusing a façade view with a full interior visit — it’s worth stepping through the doors and spending a few minutes inside, because the interior perspective often changes how a window is perceived.
Trying to visit too many sacred interiors in one day without checking service times — check Mass schedules to avoid closed doors.
Poor lighting choices for photos — pictures taken directly into the sun often lose color; look for side lighting or return at a different time of day.
Do I need a ticket to see stained glass in churches? - Most of the time church entry is free, though some places accept donations or charge internal fees for special exhibitions. Museums and special exhibitions (for example at the National Museum) require tickets.
Are all Wyspiański stained-glass windows original? - Many of Wyspiański’s designs were realized during his lifetime; others remained as projects, and some have been reconstructed or realized later. Read exhibit descriptions to learn what is an original, a reconstruction, or a later realization.
How much time do I need to get to know the subject well? - To see the most important stained glass and visit the National Museum, plan at least a half day; to visit more sites including the Stained Glass Workshop and study details, set aside a full day.
Kraków is a city where history meets everyday life — Wyspiański’s stained glass and Art Nouveau interiors show this beautifully. If you enjoyed this guide, share it with friends or on social media — it will help others plan an interesting visit. If you would like to explore with a private guide and learn more than a standard guidebook offers, consider a guided tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz — a private guide who specializes in Kraków and Wyspiański’s legacy (contact details available via zwiedzaniekrakowa.com). Have a great journey through Kraków and many inspiring artistic discoveries!
