May getaway in a nutshell: Zakopane and Kraków — Wawel, the Royal Route, Podgórze (ghetto history) and the best cafes

May getaway in a nutshell: Zakopane and Kraków — Wawel, the Royal Route, Podgórze (ghetto history) and the best cafes
Private Tour Guide in Krakow - Margaret Kasprowicz

Margaret Kasprowicz

Let’s start with a question: how to combine mountains and the city over a long weekend?

May is the perfect time to combine a quick trip to the Tatras with a few hours strolling through Kraków’s historic core. In practice, you can see Wawel and the Royal Route, visit important sites in Podgórze connected to the ghetto’s history, and make a day trip to Zakopane in four days—if you plan the order and times to avoid the biggest crowds.

One important and often surprising note up front: the central parts of the former Kraków ghetto were in the Podgórze district, not in Kazimierz. Knowing this helps you understand the city layout and lets you visit sites of memory in a logical sequence. For many visitors this fact is eye-opening and changes how they plan historical walks.

Suggested 3–4 day itinerary

Day 1: Wawel and the Royal Route — start early (morning hours) at Wawel Hill, then walk along Kanonicza and Grodzka streets down to the Main Market Square. In the evening take an easy walk through the Planty and have dinner at a good restaurant.

Day 2: Podgórze and the ghetto memory trail — visit Ghetto Heroes Square (Plac Bohaterów Getta), the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orłem — museum), surviving fragments of the ghetto wall and the recently marked Ghetto Memory Trail 1941–1943. This day is for reflection and shorter walks through less crowded streets.

Day 3: Zakopane — leave very early and plan one main attraction (Morskie Oko or Gubałówka + Krupówki). Return to Kraków in the evening or stay overnight in Zakopane if you prefer a more relaxed pace.

Day 4 (optional): Morning coffee in one of Kraków’s new or highly rated cafés, a short walk to a lesser-known viewpoint (for example Kopiec Krakusa), souvenir shopping and farewell to the city.

Wawel and the Royal Route — practical tips

Wawel Hill and the Royal Route are the most popular sightseeing spots. To avoid queues for the cathedral and castle exhibitions, buy tickets in advance and arrive as early as you can—morning light is also better for photos and a calmer visit.

Walking the Royal Route takes you through the Florian Gate, Floriańska Street, the Main Market Square, Grodzka and Kanonicza streets up to Wawel. This path tells the story of Kraków—allow time for short stops by historic houses and churches instead of rushing through just to tick boxes.

Practical note: if you plan to visit the castle chambers or crypts, check opening hours and entry limits. In season they can be restricted and it’s often better to reserve ahead. After sightseeing, have lunch at one of the well-rated restaurants near the Market Square to rest before continuing your program.

Podgórze and the ghetto history — sites you must see

Podgórze has its own complex history: in 1941–1943 the Germans established the Kraków Ghetto there. Visit Ghetto Heroes Square with its evocative memorial of chairs and the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orłem) — these places help understand the scale of events and the city’s memory.

In recent years Podgórze has been connected by an organized Ghetto Memory Trail 1941–1943 that links key points and makes it easier to explore on your own with time for reflection. The walk doesn’t take many hours, but when well planned it gives a fuller view of World War II history in Kraków.

A surprising fact: fragments of the ghetto wall and traces of guard posts still remain in the city’s fabric—seeing Podgórze not as a mere suburb but as a place of major historical importance changes how you perceive many other Kraków attractions.

Zakopane for a May trip — how to organize a one-day outing

Getting there: buses from Kraków run frequently and are usually the most cost-effective option. Trains are a good alternative if you want to avoid road congestion—on long weekends the Zakopianka road is often very busy, especially in afternoon hours.

What to see without overdoing it: Morskie Oko (start very early, ideally at dawn, to avoid crowds), Gubałówka for views and a family atmosphere, or Nosal as a short but impressive peak with panoramas. Consider whether you want a full mountain hike or a more town-centered Zakopane walk along Krupówki.

Practical advice: wear comfortable shoes, bring water and ID; mountain weather in May can change quickly—check forecasts and possible early trail closures. If you drive, plan departures outside peak hours and use official paid parking—avoid leaving the car in prohibited spots.

New and recommended cafés in Kraków — where to get a great coffee after a walk

Specialty cafés and highly rated spots have grown in Kraków in recent years. A few places worth considering during your May stroll:

ONA Coffee Bar — minimalist interior and specialty coffee; a good stop on Kazimierz or near the Old Town.

Verdo — café with a breakfast menu and good coffee, friendly for morning meetings or a quick breakfast before more sightseeing.

Emalia Zabłocie Bistro & Cafe — a pleasant spot in the Zabłocie area, convenient to rest after walking through Podgórze.

Boby (a baristas’ project) — a smaller specialty spot, a good pick if you value craft coffee and a cozy atmosphere.

Additional tip: if you want outdoor seating during the May holiday, come early or reserve a table if the café takes bookings. Popular places fill up quickly with tourists and locals on long weekends.

Food and accommodation — how to choose to be satisfied

For restaurants—choose places with solid reviews and a stable menu. Around the Market and Wawel you’ll find historic establishments with tradition as well as modern bistros. Reserve a table for the evening, especially over a long weekend.

Accommodation: plan ahead. If you want to be close to the Old Town atmosphere, book early—popular properties fill fast. Alternatives are districts a bit farther out (for example Dębniki, Krowodrza) with easy public transport connections to the center.

Recommended habit: look for places with good ratings for cleanliness and location; if you plan a same-day return from Zakopane, consider staying only in Kraków to avoid morning traffic when leaving the city.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Trying to “see everything” in one day — a better plan is to choose key points and enjoy them slowly instead of running between attractions.

Going to Zakopane without a transport plan — traffic is heavy during the May holiday; if you drive, pay special attention to departure and return times; if you prefer bus or train, buy tickets in advance.

Not booking for popular sites — tickets for special exhibitions, castle chambers or certain cable cars and railways are better bought in advance online.

FAQ and practical information

How long does it take to get from Kraków to Zakopane? Under normal conditions a bus takes about 2–2.5 hours; train times can be comparable or a bit longer depending on the connection. During the May holiday expect longer travel times due to traffic.

Is it worth booking a guided tour? If you want deeper historical context for Wawel, the Royal Route or the Podgórze memory trail, a licensed guide adds value and context that a solo walk may miss.

How to avoid queues at Wawel? Come in the morning, buy tickets online if possible, and consider visiting on weekdays if you can.

Do cafés accept card payments? Most reputable cafés and restaurants in Kraków accept cards, but in smaller places it’s useful to have some cash for small purchases.

Finally — a few friendly words and an invitation

If you liked this plan, share it with friends or on social media — it will help others plan a better May getaway. If you prefer to be sure you won’t miss the most meaningful sites and want the historical context explained, consider the services of private guide Małgorzata Kasprowicz — details and offerings are available on zwiedzaniekrakowa.com. Good luck with your planning and enjoy your visit!

If you’d like, I can prepare a timed version of the itinerary, a simple map or a short packing checklist — tell me what you prefer.