In Kraków we often talk about two layers of history: the one visible on the streets and the one buried beneath them. The Remuh Synagogue and its adjoining cemetery are among the most moving sites of Jewish heritage in the city — intimate, full of inscriptions and symbolic motifs on the tombstones, and still used as a place of prayer. The Market Square Underground, on the other hand, lets you immerse yourself in the fabric of the city from centuries ago: archaeological remains, medieval thoroughfares and a multimedia story about how the market was born and why Kraków mattered in Europe.
Combining these two points gives you a varied day: reflection among old tombstones and, at the same time, exploration of everyday life in the old city beneath the Cloth Hall. It’s an ideal proposal for a half-day or full-day trip at a relaxed pace.
The Remuh Synagogue dates from the 16th century and is named after the famous rabbi Moses Isserles (the Remuh). It is a small, modest house of worship where services are still held — therefore during the Sabbath and major religious holidays the interior may be inaccessible to tourists. Next to it lies one of the oldest preserved Jewish cemeteries in Poland, with tombstones (macevot) dating from the 16th to the 19th centuries.
At the cemetery, pay attention to the variety of symbols and the state of preservation of the graves. The Remuh’s grave has long attracted pilgrims; the tombstones are a valuable source of information about the community, its occupations and titles. Walking the alleys requires a slow pace — this is a place for reading inscriptions and looking for carved stone details.
Practical: the synagogue and the cemetery are sometimes closed on Saturdays and during Jewish holidays. Opening hours change seasonally, so it’s worth checking them in advance. Also remember that the interior is austere and treated as a sacred space — keep quiet and dress respectfully.
Inside the synagogue look for the bimah (the platform from which the Torah is read), the aron ha-kodesh (the ark) and the symbolic ner tamid (eternal lamp). These elements help understand the layout of the prayer room and the synagogue’s role in community life.
At the cemetery look for the tombstone of Moses Isserles and graves decorated with symbols of professions — these motifs tell about the social structure of old Kazimierz. Fragments of slabs damaged in the past were incorporated into the wall — a moving testimony to history and memory.
The museum beneath the Market Square is an archaeological and multimedia exhibition under the surface of the Main Market Square. Walkways of glass lead over excavations: you’ll see parts of medieval streets, ancient settlement layers and reconstructions related to trade and urban life dating back from the 11th century upward.
The exhibition combines original artefacts with modern projections and interactive screens, so it works well for families with children and for visitors who prefer a step-by-step narrative. Plan at least an hour for the visit; if you want to read displays carefully and use interactive stations, allow around two hours.
Ticket prices and entry rules for the Market Square Underground are updated from time to time. The safest approach is to check official information shortly before your trip. On certain days (for example some Tuesdays) the museum may offer free entry, but these options usually require prior reservation.
The Underground is popular — in summer and on weekends queues form at the ticket office. If comfort matters to you, buy tickets online or reserve your entry in advance. This shortens waiting time and makes it easier to fit the visit into your day’s plan.
You don’t always need to buy an entrance ticket for the Remuh Synagogue and cemetery (sometimes only a small symbolic fee applies), but because of limited capacity and services it’s best to ask about opening hours on the day you plan to visit. To respect religious practice, don’t plan an interior visit during the Sabbath (from Friday sunset through Saturday) if you hope to enter the prayer hall.
Start the morning in Kazimierz: stroll Szeroka Street, visit the Remuh Synagogue and the cemetery. The buildings are close together, so you can see them in about 45–75 minutes; if you want to read tombstone inscriptions in detail, allow more time.
After exploring Kazimierz take a break for lunch nearby — a good moment to try Mediterranean cuisine or local options. After your meal head toward the Main Market Square (the walk takes about 10–20 minutes depending on pace and route).
Plan the Market Square Underground for the afternoon. Booking a ticket for a specific time helps you avoid crowds and synchronise the visit with opening hours of other attractions, museums or concerts at St. Mary’s Basilica.
Kazimierz buzzes with dining options. If you enjoy Middle Eastern cuisine and a pleasant atmosphere, Hamsa is a trusted choice. For coffee and a light cake try Mleczarnia — a cosy spot ideal for a break between attractions.
On the Old Town I recommend stopping at one of the well-rated cafés around the Market where you can admire the view of the basilica before descending to the Underground. Choose places with good recent reviews — that’s the safest way to find high quality.
The Market Square Underground offers amenities for families: interactive areas for children and the option to rent an audio guide. The museum also has lifts and ramps, so people with strollers or reduced mobility should be able to access the exhibition — still, it’s worth confirming availability for the specific day in advance.
The Remuh Synagogue and cemetery are historic spaces with uneven paths. Access to some areas may be difficult; if you need full information about accessibility, call ahead or check up-to-date information before your visit.
Thinking you can see everything in 20–30 minutes. Both Remuh and the Market Square Underground reward those who slow down — allow at least an hour for each site if you want to feel their atmosphere.
Planning a visit on the Sabbath without checking hours. The synagogue may be closed to tourists because of religious services.
Not booking in advance for the Underground during high season. The museum fills up quickly; buy online or reserve to avoid long waits.
The grave of Moses Isserles (the Remuh) draws pilgrims from around the world — his tomb is one reason the site has kept its special status for centuries.
Archaeological work under the Market Square uncovered settlement layers stretching back many centuries; the museum’s glass walkways let you view fragments of old streets that would normally be inaccessible.
Many tombstones and stone fragments were incorporated into walls or reused after the war in ways that today tell a story of neglect and later efforts at remembrance.
Do I need to book tickets for the Market Square Underground? Not always, but online booking is strongly recommended during the tourist season and on weekends.
Can I enter the Remuh Synagogue on Saturday? Usually not, because services take place; check the hours before you go.
How much time should I reserve for both sites? At least 3–4 hours if you want to visit without rushing and include a meal break.
When planning your visit consider mornings in Kazimierz (fewer tourists and beautiful light for photos), and leave the Underground for the afternoon when the museum can be less crowded. Bring comfortable shoes, respect for places of memory and a bit of free time — these attractions are best enjoyed without haste.
If you want a guided experience with local context and cultural-historical background, consider booking a tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz (Margaret Kasprowicz) — information about her guiding services is available on zwiedzaniekrakowa.com. If you found this article helpful, share it with friends or on social media so others can discover Kraków on two levels.