The Sukiennice is not only the distinctive building in the middle of the Main Market Square - it is also one of the most important galleries of Polish 19th-century painting. Since 1879 the upper-floor rooms have served a museum function and have gathered works that today are hard to imagine anywhere but in Krakow.
The building underwent thorough conservation and modernization, and in 2010 the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art in the Sukiennice reopened in a restored form. The renovation preserved the historic character of the interiors while equipping them with modern conservation solutions and educational spaces.
It is worth going inside not only to see the "big canvases" - the Sukiennice is also a place where the history of Krakow and Poland intertwines with the lives of artists and collectors. In the Sukiennice you can feel how the national narrative and the artistic transformations of the 19th century were told with a brush.
The Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art in the Sukiennice is divided into four main themed rooms named after notable creators: the Bacciarelli Room, the Michałowski Room, the Siemiradzki Room and the Chełmoński Room. Each shows a different stage in the development of 19th-century Polish painting - from the Enlightenment, through Romanticism and Academic art, to Realism, Impressionism and the beginnings of Symbolism.
The collection in the Sukiennice formed in part thanks to gifts from artists and collectors; the start of the permanent collection is often marked by Henryk Siemiradzki's donation of his monumental painting "Nero's Torches". On display you will find works by masters such as Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski, Piotr Michałowski, Józef Chełmoński, Maurycy Gottlieb, Aleksander Gierymski and Władysław Podkowiński.
When planning your visit keep in mind that the exhibition mixes large-format paintings with smaller works and sculpture - the arrangement is chronological, thematic and almost like a visual chronicle, which helps to follow changes in aesthetics and subject matter in Polish art.
Jan Matejko's The Prussian Homage is one of those works that take your breath away with scale and dramatic staging. The canvas is almost cinematic in size - approximately 3.88 m x 7.85 m - and over the years it has been the subject of complex conservation and logistical operations, especially when transported and reinstalled in the Sukiennice after foreign loans.
Henryk Siemiradzki's "Nero's Torches" is not only a spectacular monumental canvas - it is also the symbolic gift that helped start the National Museum in Krakow's collection. The painting was one of the first large works donated to the emerging museum and ever since has held an important place in the gallery's narrative.
Pause also at Józef Chełmoński's "Four-in-Hand" - an example of realist power and fascination with rural landscape; at Władysław Podkowiński's "Frenzy of Exaltation", where sensuality and expression make a strong impression; and at works by Maurycy Gottlieb and Aleksander Gierymski, which touch on Jewish life and everyday scenes at the end of the 19th century. Each of these works hides stories about commissions, restorations and the social context of the era - look at them not just as "pretty pictures" but as historical documents.
The Gallery is usually open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 - 18:00, and closed on Mondays. Tuesdays are traditionally the day of free entry to the National Museum's permanent exhibitions, though it is wise to check the museum's current announcements before you go.
Tickets can be bought at the ticket office or online. Typical ticket prices are around 35 PLN for a full ticket, 25 PLN for a reduced ticket and a family ticket option; youth aged 7 to 26 often have a very low fee. Opening hours, prices and discounts can change, so check current information before your visit.
The Sukiennice are in the heart of Krakow's Old Town - the easiest approach is on foot from most parts of the Old Town. Public transport and trams stop close to the Main Market Square. Keep in mind that the last visitors are usually admitted about 20 minutes before closing, and some large canvases may be temporarily unavailable due to conservation work or loans. Buying tickets online saves time in the high season.
If you need up-to-date contact details, the museum central phone is +48 12 433 54 00 and the Sukiennice ticket office can be reached at the museum's local number; you can also contact the Sukiennice by email at sukiennice@mnk.pl.
Approach large paintings from a distance - their compositions often benefit from a view from several meters back, and only afterwards come closer to inspect brushwork and texture. View each major canvas from the left and the right as well - artists frequently arranged the narrative across the whole surface.
Use the gallery's educational materials: wall labels, audioguides and occasional guided tours and short talks organized by the National Museum - check the ticket office or the museum's program for current offerings. Official guides and museum educators run events and tours that add context and reveal details you might otherwise miss.
If you are visiting with children, plan shorter sessions and use the museum's educational activities - galleries often have materials that introduce younger visitors to art in an accessible way.
After leaving the Sukiennice it's nice to rest and grab a bite near the Main Market Square - you'll find both traditional Polish restaurants and elegant dining options. One well-known address is Szara, appreciated for its good value and refined interior.
Another historic option is Restauracja Wierzynek, with its long tradition, and there are several cozy cafés around the Market - reserve a table on weekends and during the high season. If you want recommendations for a specific menu type - vegetarian, regional or family-friendly - tell me what you prefer and I will tailor suggestions.
If you prefer something away from the most touristy streets, the area around Sławkowska Street and the Small Market (Mały Rynek) has pleasant cafés and bars with very good coffee and pastries.
1) Coming to the Market and limiting the visit to a photo of the Sukiennice from outside. The interior is a completely different experience - allow at least 60-90 minutes for a calm viewing of the gallery.
2) Thinking you must "read" large paintings quickly - big compositions require time. Stop at a few details, read the labels and return several times to favorite fragments.
3) Not planning a break - fast-paced visiting can be tiring; plan a coffee or light meal break to recover focus and absorb the art better.
Is entry to the Sukiennice free on Tuesdays? - Yes, Tuesday is often the day of free entry to permanent exhibitions, but check the museum's current announcements before visiting.
How much time should I set aside for the visit? - A minimum of 60 minutes, but if you want to study the main works and read the labels plan 90-120 minutes.
Can I take photos? - Many museums allow photography without flash; rules can change so ask at the ticket office.
Many well-known works in the Sukiennice have long, sometimes turbulent histories - they were stored during wars, travelled to foreign exhibitions and underwent complex conservation treatments. Some paintings show traces of retouching and repairs that are fascinating stories in their own right.
In the arrangement of the renovated Sukiennice, multimedia and educational elements were introduced to help you better understand the context of the works and the era in which they were created. If you are interested in conservation, look out for temporary exhibitions or special events focused on research and restoration.
Few people know that some of the largest works are transported on special rollers and in crates - the operation requires great care and coordination.
If you found this article useful, share it with friends or on social media - it will help others plan an interesting visit to the heart of Krakow.
If you prefer a personal, intimate visit with added anecdotes and context, consider booking a private guided tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz - contact details are available on the zwiedzaniekrakowa.com website. I invite you to discover Krakow with curiosity and calm!
