Heroes of the Ghetto Square in Podgórze is one of those places in Krakow that combines important history with an urban space worth visiting even if you came mainly for good coffee and dessert. Here stands the recognizable “empty chairs” installation — a symbol of remembrance for the ghetto residents who were deported during the war. On the square you can also see fragments of the former ghetto wall and the building of the former pharmacy, now a small museum that tells the stories of the people who lived there. With a little imagination, a walk around the area mixes sightseeing with a powerful emotional and cultural experience.
On the square pay attention to the installation made up of larger and smaller chairs arranged across the plaza — an artistic interpretation of what was left after people: 33 larger chairs and additional seats create an instantly recognizable urban memorial. For history fans the Eagle Pharmacy (Apteka „Pod Orłem”) — associated with Tadeusz Pankiewicz — is a must-see; today it functions as a museum branch telling the story of life in the ghetto.
The square is also a great starting point if you want to combine serious sightseeing with a lighter culinary walk — within walking distance are Oskar Schindler’s Factory, MOCAK (Museum of Contemporary Art) and, after crossing the river, the many cafés and patisseries of Kazimierz.
From Heroes of the Ghetto Square you can begin a short walk that isn’t tiring but offers a lot: start with the square and the pharmacy, then head toward Zabłocie and Schindler’s Factory (the museum), stop by MOCAK — the museum of contemporary art — and continue across the little bridge over the Vistula to Kazimierz, where side streets hide cosy cafés and pastry shops.
This loop is a good afternoon plan: history and museums in the morning, and after lunch or between exhibitions a small reward in the form of cake, a croissant or a local treat. Most places are close enough so walking lets you feel the atmosphere of both districts — Podgórze and Kazimierz.
If you prefer a shorter route, stay in Podgórze: the pharmacy, the memorial, a quick stop for sweets at a nearby confectionery and a return to the riverside — plenty of impressions without a long march.
Krakow has loads of patisseries and cafés, but a few spots are worth remembering because they combine great taste, reasonable prices and an atmosphere friendly to young people:
Massolit Bakery & Cafe — a student favourite with good cheesecake and pastries, ideal for a quick cake and coffee before or after a walk. They often offer vegan options and seasonal sweets, which many Erasmus students appreciate.
Wyszukane Desery (Bracia Szewczenko) — a patisserie with original desserts that impress with looks and flavour; a great choice when you want something special for social media photos and real pastry pleasure.
Chimney Cake (Trdelnik) — classic sweet street food: warm kurtosze/trdelniks with various fillings are a quick, inexpensive and filling option, perfect while wandering around Kazimierz. Also a great pick for a student group — share and try different flavours.
For fans of classic treats: look out for cream cakes, cookies and local cheesecakes — small patisseries near Kleparz Market and around Kazimierz often offer the best price-to-quality ratio.
If you need something fast and very cheap, local bakeries and food trucks nearby sell fresh baked goods and kurtosze — ideal when the student budget takes priority.
Looking for a spot for an Erasmus group? Check whether the place has outdoor tables or communal space — coffee with cake is often a social moment, so seating comfort matters. Also look at opening hours: smaller patisseries may close earlier than chain cafés.
Avoid the most obvious tourist “traps” right around the Main Market — pastries there can be more expensive and less original. It’s better to walk a few streets to cafés run by local bakers.
Ask the barista for local recommendations — you’ll often learn about the dessert of the day or what regulars rate highest. It’s an easy way to find something fresh and worth indulging in.
Remember payment methods: most cafés accept cards, but for food trucks it’s useful to have cash. If you come with a larger group, consider getting take-away and sitting in a nearby park or by the Vistula — often cheaper and comfortable.
Trying to visit all the attractions and cafés in one day — overly ambitious plans usually end in rushing and fatigue. Better pick 2–3 stops and explore more calmly.
Buying the first trdelnik you see on the main promenade — if you care about quality, choose a stall recommended by locals or a small craft maker rather than just the most visible booth. Small differences in preparation make a big difference in taste.
Not checking museum and museum-pharmacy opening hours — the Eagle Pharmacy (Apteka „Pod Orłem”) has limited opening times; if you want to go inside, check in advance. The same applies to Schindler’s Factory and other museum branches.
Is Heroes of the Ghetto Square free to visit? Yes — the square and the memorial are freely accessible, while the museum inside the pharmacy and Schindler’s Factory are ticketed with separate admission fees.
Is the area safe at night? In general Podgórze and Kazimierz are frequented by tourists in the evening, but as everywhere—use basic precautions and keep an eye on your belongings.
How much does dessert cost at recommended places? Prices vary — from a few zlotys for a street trdelnik to a dozen or more zlotys for a signature dessert in a patisserie. For students a good plan is to visit a bakery or street food for a quick cheap snack and save the patisserie visit for a special treat.
Is it a good idea to combine sightseeing with coffee at certain times? Best outside peak tourist hours — early afternoon or late afternoon are moments when cafés are less crowded and the square and museums feel calmer.
At Heroes of the Ghetto Square the tradition of remembrance meets modern urban design — the chair installation is not only a monument but also a part of the public space, sometimes used by residents during cultural events.
If you like taking photos for Instagram, try the morning light in Kazimierz after crossing from Podgórze — fewer people and soft light often give better shots of desserts and café interiors.
If you’re staying in Krakow longer than a weekend, consider a walk along the Vistula after dessert — the benches by the river are a favourite spot for students to continue conversations over hot chocolate.
If this text helped you plan a sweet afternoon in Krakow, share it with friends or send it to your Erasmus group — nothing bonds students like shared coffee and dessert after a walk. If you want to learn the history of Heroes of the Ghetto Square and its surroundings in a more personal way, consider a private guided tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz — contact details are available on zwiedzaniekrakowa.com. Warmly recommended and enjoy your tasty sightseeing!
If you want, I can put together a short 30–60 minute route with dessert stops tailored to your schedule and budget — tell me when you plan to go, how many people and whether you prefer to sit inside or take desserts to go.
