If you have only two days in Kraków, St. Mary's Basilica should be high on your must-see list — it stands in the heart of the Main Market Square and houses some of the most impressive examples of Gothic sacred art in Poland.
In this article you will find a short history of the church, a description of its key architectural elements, a practical two-day sightseeing plan, food recommendations and useful tips plus common mistakes to avoid.
A Romanesque church originally stood on the site and is mentioned in sources from the early 13th century. The present shape began to take form in the 14th century, and the building gained its final Gothic appearance after later medieval reconstructions.
For centuries St. Mary's was the city's main parish church and a place where wealthy guilds and townspeople invested in chapels, altars and decorations. In the 17th–18th centuries the interior was Baroque-ified, and by the late 19th century conservation work and historical polychromes restored much of its Gothic character.
It is an example of Brick Gothic: the massive form with two unequal towers creates a recognisable silhouette on the Main Market Square. The taller trumpet tower is more slender and clearly taller than the lower tower, which gives the church a sense of dynamism.
Inside you'll find one of the greatest masterpieces of late Gothic sculpture — the main altar by Veit Stoss (Wit Stwosz), carved at the end of the 15th century. The altar is monumental in both sculptural solutions and scale; its movable wings illustrate key episodes from the life of the Virgin Mary and Christ.
The polychromes and stained glass you see today are the result of work by successive generations of artists. In the late 19th century the interior's Gothic character was reinstated, and artists such as Jan Matejko, Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer collaborated on some of the polychrome and decorative work.
The Hejnał mariacki — a melody played every hour from the taller tower — is a living tradition; the abrupt ending of the tune refers to an old legend about the trumpeter who warned the city of an attack.
Veit Stoss's main altar — give it a calm 20–30 minutes, study the carved scenes on the movable wings and notice the details in the central registers.
Side chapels — each has its own story and furnishings; look out for inscriptions and epitaphs on the walls.
Stained glass and polychromes — especially those designed or restored with input from Matejko, Wyspiański and Mehoffer; watch the colours and historical motifs.
The Hejnał — if you can, be in the Market Square at the top of the hour and listen for the sudden cut-off of the melody — a local tradition that makes an impression.
Day 1 — Old Town: start the morning at St. Mary's Basilica to see the main altar and the interior, then stroll around the Main Market Square and have lunch at one of the restaurants on the square (for example Wierzynek or Szara). In the afternoon visit Wawel Castle and walk the Planty Gardens.
Day 2 — Kazimierz and surroundings: take a morning walk to Kazimierz, visit the synagogues, browse cafés and galleries, have lunch at a recommended spot (for example Pod Wawelem or Miód Malina), spend the afternoon in a museum (Bunkier Sztuki or MOCAK) and discover local bars and confectioneries in the evening.
On both days leave time for relaxed coffee breaks — Cafe Camelot is a comfortable place for a rest after exploring the Old Town.
Check opening hours and possible closures for services — the basilica is still an active parish, so some areas may be temporarily unavailable to tourists during worship.
Dress so that shoulders and knees are covered — basic modest dress is expected in places of worship; also keep quiet and show respect for those praying.
Photography may be allowed but often without flash — follow the rules and signs. If you want to climb the tower, check seasonal availability and ticketing, because the taller tower is open to visitors only in selected months.
Wierzynek — a historic restaurant on the Main Square, great if you want atmosphere and traditional cuisine; remember it's popular and prices are higher than in side streets.
Szara (Szara Gęś) — a restaurant with a menu inspired by local flavours, often recommended by visitors to the Old Town.
Cafe Camelot — a charming café ideal for a break after sightseeing, with a good choice of cakes and coffee.
Miód Malina — a cosy place for lunch with hearty Polish dishes, a good choice for a filling mid-day meal.
The Veit Stoss altarpiece was an investment on the scale of the city — its execution and price reflect the wealth and ambition of Kraków's councilors in the 15th century.
The polychromes you see today are the result of 19th-century restorations in which Jan Matejko and his collaborators took part — so the interior combines authentic Gothic forms with a romantic interpretation of Polish history.
The Hejnał is played every hour with almost no interruption; the sudden cut in the melody is the most famous element of the legend and a piece of local identity.
Assuming the church visit will take only 5 minutes — there are many details inside, and the Veit Stoss altar deserves a calm look; plan more time.
Not checking service times — during Mass or special services access for visitors may be limited; verify the schedule before your visit.
Being unprepared for queues — in high season there may be lines at the entrance, so arrive early or include waiting time in your day's plan.
Can you climb St. Mary's tower? The higher tower is open to visitors in selected months, but access is seasonal and limited — it's best to check current information before you go.
How much time do I need to see the interior? At least 30–45 minutes to see the altar and do a quick walk-through; if you're interested in history and details, plan about an hour.
Is modest attire required inside? Yes — treat the basilica with respect, avoid loud conversations and dress appropriately.
St. Mary's Basilica is a place that combines rich history, impressive art and living city traditions. Even if you have only two days in Kraków, it's worth spending time here and looking calmly at the main details.
If you found this article helpful, share it with friends or on social media. If you'd like to explore Kraków with a local, private guide, consider services by Małgorzata Kasprowicz (contact details are available on the guide's website). Enjoy your visit — Kraków is best discovered slowly and with curiosity!
