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Podgórze in Style: the Ghetto's History, Schindler's Factory and New Cafés

Podgórze in Style: the Ghetto's History, Schindler's Factory and New Cafés
Private Tour Guide in Krakow - Margaret Kasprowicz

Margaret Kasprowicz

Did you know Podgórze used to be a separate town?

Podgórze has its own rhythm and history - as late as 1915 it was a separate town before being incorporated into Kraków. Today it is a part of the city that connects layers of memory with the modern, loft-style Zabłocie. It’s a perfect place for a walk: you’ll find a cosy market square, parks, viewpoints and - increasingly - excellent cafés worth visiting after a morning spent at places of memory. If you’re interested in history, architecture and local atmosphere in one walk, Podgórze is ideal for a half-day program.

Ghetto Heroes' Square and the "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy - places of memory

Ghetto Heroes’ Square (formerly Mały Rynek / Plac Zgody) is the heart of Podgórze’s World War II history. During the occupation the Germans created a ghetto here, and the square was a site of gatherings and deportations. On the square the single cast-iron chairs draw the eye - an artistic installation that recalls lives dispersed and taken. In the corner of the square, at number 18, stands the "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy - today a museum branch that tells the story of life in the ghetto and of people like Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who as the only Pole was allowed to remain in the ghetto and helped its residents. This is a place to spend time and keep silence to understand the weight of events and to honour the memory of the victims.

Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory - history and the exhibition

The factory at Lipowa 4 is one of the most important places in Podgórze for anyone interested in the city’s wartime history. The office building houses a branch of the Historical Museum devoted to Kraków in 1939–1945 and to the story of the factory and the people connected with it. The production halls of the former Enamelworks have been adapted for cultural uses, underlining the district’s transformation from industrial to cultural-artistic. It’s worth checking opening hours and buying tickets in advance - the exhibition can attract crowds, especially in the tourist season.

Podgórze Market Square, parks and the mound - places for a calm walk

Podgórze Market Square is an intimate space with a local vibe - a café, small shops and pleasant outdoor seating. Nearby you’ll find Bednarski Park and a mound that offers a wide panorama of the Vistula and the neighbouring hills. A walk through Old Podgórze reveals layers of history: from the former river port and salt depot to industrial buildings now converted into galleries, studios and eateries. Plan your route to combine places of memory with a relaxing moment in one of the local cafés.

Where to get good coffee and food in Podgórze - recommendations

De Revolutionibus Books (Rynek Podgórski) - a bookstore with a café, an excellent spot for a quiet breakfast or afternoon cake with a book. A large selection of titles and a calm atmosphere make it one of the best places for a literary break in Podgórze.

Emalia Zabłocie - a bistro/café with an industrial vibe, a good choice of dishes and a pleasant interior in the Zabłocie area, ideal for a later lunch after visiting Schindler’s Factory.

Lipowa Hall - a food hall in the Zabłocie area where everyone can find something: from street food to artisanal desserts and good coffee. A good spot for a larger, social break and sampling several flavours.

Cafe Klimat and other intimate cafés of Old Podgórze - recommended if you’re looking for local places with authentic atmosphere and good coffee. Choose places highly rated by residents and check opening hours, as some venues change schedules outside the season.

A few surprising facts about Podgórze

The "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy was the only pharmacy operating within the ghetto and a place where residents sought help and information - today it is a small museum with a strong, personal-history narrative.

Fragments of the ghetto wall have survived in different parts of the district - while walking Podgórze you can come across traces of the past that often escape a passerby’s notice.

Zabłocie has undergone a rapid transformation: industrial and factory halls have gradually made way for galleries, studios and new venues, creating an interesting contrast between memory and contemporary life.

Practical tips and FAQ

How to get there? The quickest ways are by tram or on foot across the Bernatek pedestrian bridge from Kazimierz - the walk from the Main Market Square usually takes 20-30 minutes. Trams and buses stop at Zabłocie and Plac Bohaterów Getta.

Do I need to buy tickets in advance? For popular exhibitions like Schindler’s Factory it’s worth buying tickets ahead of time - especially in high season. Opening hours vary by season, so check current information before your visit.

Are the memorial sites accessible for people with limited mobility? Some venues provide facilities, but not all historic buildings are fully accessible. If you need assistance, contact the venue staff in advance.

How much time to allocate? To see Schindler’s Factory and the "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy properly, plan at least half a day. If you want to add a walk through Zabłocie and a café break, plan for a full day.

Common tourist mistakes and how to avoid them

Treating Podgórze only as an "appetizer" to Kazimierz - you’ll miss the local atmosphere and good eateries. Plan time for a relaxed walk.

Being noisy near memorial sites - keep quiet and show respect; these places mark real lives and tragedies.

Relying on the first café next to the museum - Podgórze has many excellent cafés and bistros; walk a few streets further instead of picking the first option next to the attraction.

Finally - share and use local help

If you enjoyed this guide, share it with friends or tag it on social media - it will help others discover Podgórze in style. If you prefer to tour with someone who will show the most important places and tell local stories sensitively, consider booking a private guide with Małgorzata Kasprowicz - contact and details are available on the guide’s website. This way you’ll discover Podgórze both from the perspective of memory and of contemporary district life.