The Lady with an Ermine is the only Leonardo da Vinci painting in Polish collections and one of the top reasons tourists come to Kraków. For that reason, standard short visits can feel too brief — crowds, limited capacity and special conservation rules mean a private visit gives the comfort, context and time to truly appreciate the work. If you want to ask questions, linger over details or hear the story of the painting’s history, an individual tour is worth considering.
This article gives practical tips: where the painting is usually displayed, how to book a visit, how many people can join a group, and the best nearby cafés for a coffee after the museum. You’ll also find a few surprising facts that not every guide mentions.
The portrait of Cecilia Gallerani, known as the Lady with an Ermine (sometimes called Lady with a Stoat), was painted around the late 15th century and has had a turbulent history — from Italian collections, to acquisition by the Czartoryski family, through wartime events in World War II and many international loans. It’s a small panel painted on walnut that, despite modest dimensions, draws attention for its technical precision and the sitter’s enigmatic gaze.
One interesting detail: museum professionals and researchers have run experiments exploring the painting’s scent, studying how the surface and materials smell — an example of how modern museums work on many levels to communicate artworks.
The painting belongs to the collection of the Princes Czartoryski Museum, a branch of the National Museum in Kraków, but it is sometimes temporarily loaned to international exhibitions. For that reason, always check current exhibition information before buying tickets or planning a private tour.
Renovations, transfers and loans can change the painting’s display location — it has been shown both in the Main Building of the National Museum and outside Kraków in the past. Confirm the current display location on the museum’s website or by contacting the Information and Reservations Centre directly.
Keep in mind that, for conservation reasons, access to the room with the most valuable works may be restricted and viewing time may be regulated by staff. A private visit often makes it easier to secure a convenient schedule and shorter queues.
The National Museum in Kraków accepts bookings for guided tours and educational services through its Information and Reservations Centre. The fastest ways to contact them are e‑mail and phone. A booking request should include the proposed date, the chosen gallery/branch, the number of participants and contact details for the person making the reservation.
Many MNK branches offer guided tours in Polish included with the guiding service fee (as a rough guide, around 130 PLN for a Polish-language guided tour; prices and rules may vary by branch and special programmes). Admission tickets for participants are additional. It’s advisable to reserve in advance, especially if you need a specific date and time.
Groups are subject to size limits for safety and the protection of exhibits. For the Princes Czartoryski Museum the maximum number of participants may be restricted — check the current rules when you book, because exceeding the declared number can result in refusal of service.
If you’re organising a visit for people with special needs (for example accessibility for visitors with disabilities), write in advance — the museum often prepares special arrangements and can provide audio guides or assistance.
Arrive earlier than your scheduled time — the hours just after opening are usually the least crowded and let you view the most important works more calmly.
Buy your ticket online if possible; you’ll save time and reduce the risk of tickets selling out. If you’ve booked a guided tour, make sure you have electronic confirmation of the reservation.
Avoid large backpacks and suitcases — many museums require you to leave them in the cloakroom. Check photographing rules (photos may be prohibited in some rooms).
Ask about context: a private guide gives you a chance to discuss technique, conservation or the symbolism of the ermine — take advantage and ask specific questions.
If you plan a coffee break after seeing the "Lady with an Ermine", you can choose between historic cafés with unique atmosphere and modern specialty spots. Here are a few tried-and-true addresses close to the Old Town and the museum district:
Noworolski (Sukiennice, Main Market Square) — a classic café with history, perfect for a pause between visiting and strolling the Market. Sweet desserts and the atmosphere of an old artistic salon.
Wentzl / Słodki Wentzl (Main Market Square) — a traditional restaurant and café known for desserts and pleasant coffee; a great spot for something sweet after the museum.
Cafe Camelot (ul. Św. Tomasza / near the Market) — romantic interiors and an atmospheric courtyard; a good place for a longer conversation after sightseeing.
Bunkier Cafe (Plac Szczepański) — close to the contemporary gallery; this spot combines good coffee and simple cuisine with proximity to artistic spaces.
Magia Cafe — a small, intimate place near the Old Town, great for a quiet coffee in a cosy interior or a courtyard.
Ranny Ptaszek (Kazimierz) — if you plan a walk to Kazimierz after the museum, this small friendly café serves breakfasts and excellent coffee.
Forum Przestrzenie (Kazimierz) — if you prefer a more relaxed vibe and a view of the Vistula, this is an excellent choice.
When choosing a place, follow guest reviews and ratings — pick highly rated venues if coffee bean quality and brewing methods matter to you.
Assuming the "Lady" will always be available — don’t plan a trip around a single guaranteed date without prior confirmation; the work is sometimes loaned or moved temporarily.
Not booking in advance — with high interest it’s wise to reserve guided tours and tickets early to avoid disappointment.
Ignoring museum rules — photographing, touching exhibits or bringing large backpacks can lead to being asked to leave the room.
Not planning a coffee or meal break — in season, places around the Market can be full; if you care about a specific café, get there early or reserve a table.
In 2024–2025 the painting was the subject of intensive loans and conservation research — this shows that museum work is not only exhibiting an object but also safeguarding, studying and sometimes running special outreach projects to popularise art.
Multisensory experiments, like testing scents connected with painting materials, are a growing trend in museology — they let other senses come closer to the object’s history.
It’s also useful to know that ownership and status of the "Lady" have been subject to bilateral deposit agreements — museums formally care for the work even when the legal owner is a foundation.
Can I take a photo of the "Lady with an Ermine"? Photography rules are set by the museum; in many cases photos inside the room are limited — ask before entering or check the regulations.
Do I need a special ticket for the "Lady"? Often a ticket to the Princes Czartoryski Museum branch is enough, but for large exhibitions or group bookings it’s wise to confirm the exact ticket type.
How many people can join a private guided tour? Limits depend on the branch; for the Princes Czartoryski Museum limits are usually lower than for bigger MNK branches — confirm the maximum number when booking to avoid issues at entry.
What if the "Lady" is on loan and I can’t see it? Even without the "Lady", the National Museum in Kraków and its branches offer rich collections of painting, sculpture and applied arts — consider visiting other exhibitions or rescheduling your trip.
If this text helped you plan your visit, share it with friends or on social media — it’s useful for others to know how to make the most of their time in Kraków.
If you want to tour in a comfortable, personalised way, consider booking a private guide — Małgorzata Kasprowicz offers tailored guided visits. Contact details and service information are available on the guide’s website. With a private tour you’ll see the most important works at the right pace, learn curiosities and receive practical tips for the whole visit.
Good luck planning and see you in Kraków!
