Pause for a moment at the Main Square and look at the façade of St. Mary's Basilica — the first thing that catches the eye is the two unequal towers. Where does that difference in height come from, and what stories do the walls of one of Kraków's most famous churches hide? The answer is a mix of architectural facts, municipal functions from centuries past, and colourful legends that have drawn tourists and locals for generations.
The taller, northern tower, called the Hejnal Tower or the Watchtower, is about 82 metres high and long served as the city's lookout. It is from this tower that the hejnal is played every hour, in four directions. The lower, southern tower is about 69 metres tall and traditionally served as the parish belfry. Both towers date back to the late-medieval structure of the church, but they received their final shapes and roofs at different times, which explains the difference in height and the contrasting roof styles.
St. Mary's developed in stages from the 13th to the end of the 15th century and was rebuilt several times. At some point the northern tower was raised and adapted to serve as a civic watchtower — for observation and alarms for the city. In the 15th century an octagonal spire was added to it (the work is traditionally attributed to master Maciej Heringk, dated to 1478), giving it the appearance of a proper city alarm tower. On the southern side a decorative cap appeared later — a Renaissance roof from 1592 with a different profile and lower height. The different dates of rebuilding and their different architectural roles resulted in the two uneven silhouettes we see today, which nevertheless harmonize well with the market square landscape.
One of the best-known tales tells of two master builders brothers who were to build the two towers. The younger, seeing that the older was progressing faster, killed him in jealousy. The moral of the story says that the knife used in the murder supposedly still hangs in the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) as a reminder. This is a typical legend that explains architectural features by human passions — there is no direct documentary proof, but the tradition of telling this story has become part of the city's lore and is often repeated by guides and in publications. Stories like this give the Marian towers an added dramatic dimension for visitors.
The hejnal, played from the higher tower, is a centuries-old tradition. The most famous legend explains why the melody suddenly stops: in medieval times the trumpeter warned the city of danger, and during one Tatar raid the trumpeter was struck by an arrow and his playing stopped in the middle of the tune. To commemorate that sacrifice, the hejnal is still played with the break in the same place. The hejnal is performed live, every hour, in four directions — for Wawel, the city authorities, newcomers and merchants — and is one of Kraków's most recognisable traditions.
The taller tower features an ornamental gilded crown of Mary that was mounted in the 17th century and has been restored several times over the years. The access to the place where the hejnal is played climbs around 239 steps — useful information for anyone planning to go up: you ascend narrow, winding stairs, so consider your fitness level and any fear of heights. In the lower tower there is a historically significant bell often referred to in sources as the “Half-Zygmunt” (not to be confused with the famous Zygmunt bell at Wawel). Both towers bear traces of successive reconstructions and repairs, so different decorative elements contrast with each other — the result of centuries of work by generations of craftsmen.
Yes, you can climb the tower — but check opening hours and conditions with the Basilica's official information or at the tourist information point, because access is sometimes limited (for example due to conservation work or weather conditions). Entrance requires purchasing a ticket, and for safety reasons there may be age restrictions (small children are sometimes not allowed). Take into account the 239 steps and narrow passages — people with significant mobility limitations may not be able to reach the upper levels. If you want photos from above, it's best to come before noon or in the late afternoon when the light is softer, and remember to be careful near the edges of the viewing galleries.
Confusing the Zygmunt bell with the bell in St. Mary's — the Zygmunt bell is on Wawel Hill; St. Mary's houses a different historic bell often called the Half-Zygmunt. Assuming the hejnal is played from a recording — the hejnal is played live every hour; if you want to experience the tradition, be by the tower exactly on the hour. Trying to get up the tower without tickets or outside visiting hours — plan ahead and check availability online or at the tourist information desk. Using a tripod in crowded upper galleries — better to carry light equipment, as space on the viewing galleries is limited.
The Main Square offers many well-rated places — if you plan a break after climbing the tower, consider these tried-and-true spots: the historic Wierzynek restaurant (for those who want the atmosphere of old banquets), Café Noworolski in the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), or the cosy Café Camelot on Świętego Tomasza Street. For dessert look out for gelato or local patisseries that receive good reviews. Keep in mind that places right on the square tend to be pricier but offer an unbeatable view — if you prefer a calmer atmosphere, turn into one of the side streets of the Old Town where you will find intimate cafés with great reviews.
- The hejnal is played live by trumpeters who take shifts; historically this role was combined with the duties of a city watchman.
- The taller tower sports a symbolic crown of Mary, which has been renewed and conserved multiple times over the centuries.
- Tales of two brothers and a knife supposedly hanging in the Cloth Hall belong to city folklore; legends like this give the urban landscape an emotional, dramatic layer.
Can I bring a stroller or a person in a wheelchair up the tower? - Unfortunately access to the upper levels is by stairs and can be difficult for people with limited mobility; it is best to consult with the Basilica staff in advance.
How many steps are there? - There are about 239 steps to the hejnalist's location; keep this in mind when planning your visit.
Is the hejnal played every day? - Yes, the hejnal sounds every hour, 24 hours a day (check for possible exceptions during holidays or conservation work).
Can I take photographs? - Yes, photography is allowed, but please respect the place of worship and other visitors; using a tripod on narrow galleries can be problematic.
To make the most of your visit to the Market Square: attend a hejnal performance and then climb the tower — you will experience both tradition and a panorama of the city. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a small backpack instead of a heavy bag, and remember that it can be cooler up top than on the square. Avoid the busiest hours if you want photos without crowds — early morning and late afternoon are best. If you are travelling with family, check age restrictions for children beforehand.
If you would like to learn the history of St. Mary's Basilica with stories that bring every detail to life, or need help planning a visit to Kraków — from ticket reservations to organising transport and booking restaurants — I am happy to help. Małgorzata Kasprowicz, a private guide available through zwiedzaniekrakowa.com, offers tours of museums and the city's most interesting sites, as well as logistics: transport, accommodation, table reservations and tickets. It's a convenient solution if you want to see Kraków without stress and discover more than a leaflet provides.
Share this article with friends or on social media — it will help them better plan their visit to the heart of Kraków. Feel free to contact me through zwiedzaniekrakowa.com — Małgorzata will gladly advise and prepare a route tailored to your expectations.
