The Sukiennice remain one of the most recognisable places in the heart of Kraków; since the second half of the 19th century they have housed branches of the National Museum, and the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art in the Sukiennice gathers one of the most important collections of Polish painting from that era.
Keep in mind that the arrangement of the rooms, the exhibition design and the selection of works all have a history of their own — from the museum’s founding in the 19th century to major conservation and modernisation works in the 21st century. That history affects what you will see on display: the order of the rooms, the way works are described and which pieces are highlighted are not accidental.
If you want to visit “smartly”: check opening hours before your visit, take a floor map and spend time on a few chosen paintings rather than rushing from one work to another.
Historical paintings (that is, works referring to events, figures or legends from the past) often operate on many levels: documentary, literary, allegorical and political. In 19th-century Poland, where many of the artists represented in the Sukiennice worked, history painting also had an educative and nation-building role — painters such as Jan Matejko aimed to synthesise an era and “tell” history within a single frame.
This means a painting does not always faithfully reconstruct facts — composition, the cast of characters or added details may be deliberately altered to emphasise the artist’s idea, provoke an emotion or convey a political comment. For that reason it’s useful to read paintings “like a text”, paying attention to symbolism and historical context.
Look at what is painted in the foreground and in the background, who occupies centre stage and who is almost erased — that is key to understanding the message.
1. Stop and read the label. The title, author, date and technique are the first layer of information — they often hint at what kind of narrative you are facing.
2. Examine the composition: who is central, what relationships do the figures form, which lines (for example looks, gestures, architectural arrangement) lead your eye. Composition often points to the main theme or conflict.
3. Look for attributes and props: crowns, banners, weapons, books, musical instruments or specific objects. Attributes usually tell you who the figures are or give the scene a metaphorical meaning.
4. Pay attention to costumes and costume details: dress indicates period, social status and role (warrior, dignitary, clergyman). 19th-century painters often referred to historical costumes — not always faithfully, but deliberately.
5. Decipher symbols and allegories: colours, animals, plants, small figures placed beside characters or architectural elements can carry religious, mythological or political meanings. It helps to know basic symbols or note elements to check later.
6. Read the background: landscape, architecture, a flag or a distant building can locate the scene historically or give it a contemporary (for the artist) political context.
7. Think about the artist’s intention: is the painting showing a heroic triumph, a moment of reflection, a warning? History painters often combined multiple layers of meaning — look for them.
8. Compare — if you find a work by a given artist in the Sukiennice, look for sketches, drawings or other paintings (the museum sometimes provides digital resources). Comparison helps distinguish what is constant in the artist’s work from what was invented for this composition.
When you stand before a large canvas by Matejko, Siemiradzki or Michałowski, start with these questions: who is the hero of the composition, who is the “moral background” (symbolic figures), which gestures say more than words, and what do clothing and weaponry tell you. In the Sukiennice it’s worth noticing works by artists such as Piotr Michałowski, Jan Matejko, Artur Grottger, Henryk Siemiradzki, Jacek Malczewski, Maurycy Gottlieb and Wojciech Korneli Stattler.
A practical example: if you see a battle scene — check whether the artist aimed for faithful depiction of the event (maps, uniforms, specific banners) or for a symbolic synthesis (the commander figure as an embodiment of the nation). If the scene is mythological or biblical — consider which motifs might be used as allegories for the author’s contemporary issues.
Some paintings include “symbolic figures” or “historical guests”, meaning people who did not actually take part in the depicted event but were inserted by the artist because of their ideological significance. This is a common strategy used by Matejko and other historicising painters.
Come in the morning or right after opening — rooms are less crowded and it’s easier to spend time at chosen paintings. Weekend afternoons are usually the busiest.
Check the rules about photography and touching exhibits — the museum posts the visitor regulations, and in some rooms photography may be completely prohibited.
If you want to understand several paintings better, spend 10–15 minutes on each: read the description, study the details, jot down questions. It’s worth returning to the same works after 30 minutes — you’ll often notice elements you missed at first glance.
Use binoculars or your smartphone to zoom in on details (without flash); note signatures, fragments of inscriptions or dates. Afterwards check these details in a guide or online.
Thinking that a history painting is a “photograph of the past” — most historical works are deliberately staged narratives; treating them as literal records can lead to false conclusions.
Relying only on aesthetics — a beautiful landscape doesn’t mean there isn’t a hidden meaning; beauty often masks complex messages.
Skipping the label — the title and date are key; sometimes the title itself reveals an allusion or ironic comment by the artist.
Assuming the author meant the same as a modern viewer would — interpretations change over time and with context; it’s useful to check what a symbol meant when the painting was created.
The Sukiennice were chosen as the seat of the Gallery already in 1879 — since then the place has become one of the central points for presenting 19th-century Polish art.
The contemporary arrangement and modernisation of the gallery are the result of long conservation works and the “New Sukiennice” project, which restored the exhibition spaces and made visiting easier.
Many artists represented in the Sukiennice drew inspiration not only from historical sources but also from literature, chronicles and theatre; gestures and details often refer to texts that were well known in the artist’s time.
Do I have to buy a ticket in advance? - In the tourist season and for special exhibitions it’s a good idea to buy a ticket online or reserve a time to avoid queues.
How much time should I spend? - If you only want to “see” the gallery, 45–60 minutes is enough. To really read a few paintings and use educational materials, plan 2–3 hours.
Can I take photos? - Photo rules depend on the room and the exhibition; using flash is usually forbidden, and in some spaces photography may be entirely restricted.
Are there guided tours or audio guides? - The museum offers educational materials and guided tours led by official guides; ask at the ticket desk about themed tours and availability.
After visiting the Sukiennice many people look for a place with traditional cuisine and Market Square atmosphere. In the area you can find historic, well-reviewed restaurants, elegant cafés and cosy bars — consider choosing establishments with a long history and good reviews.
If you’re in the mood for something special: consider local restaurants on the Main Market Square and nearby streets — many combine traditional flavours with modern presentation. For coffee and desserts try the small cafés and patisseries around the Old Town.
Remember: during the high season it can be wise to reserve a table.
Reading paintings is a skill — the more you practice, the more details you will notice and the more rewarding your museum visits will become. The Sukiennice are a perfect place to start this journey: on one hand you have grand historical narratives, on the other intimate, symbol-rich smaller works.
If you enjoyed this text, share it with friends or on social media — maybe you’ll come together for a relaxed session of reading paintings at the Sukiennice!
If you’d like to visit with a guide, I invite you to use the services of private guide Małgorzata Kasprowicz — contact details and the offer are available at zwiedzaniekrakowa.com.
