Today the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) looks like one of Kraków’s best-known symbols: arcades, craft stalls and crowds of tourists taking photos. But beneath that familiar façade there is much more — layers of history you can literally see when you descend into the underground. Here archaeology and modern museology meet to create a themed route that tells the story of trade, everyday life and the city’s identity from pre-city times up to the 19th century. For many visitors, going down under the Sukiennice is the moment Kraków stops being just a stage and becomes a living story about people, goods and rules that shaped the city for centuries.
In this article I’ll show what you’ll see on the route, what secrets the reconstructed "Kramy Bogate" hold, what to know before your visit and how to combine the tour with a good coffee or lunch. The text is meant to help you plan a visit so it’s interesting, comfortable and full of surprising discoveries.
The present Cloth Hall has its roots in medieval trade: a place for selling cloth and city goods occupied the central spot on the Main Market Square laid out in 1257. After a fire in the 16th century the building was rebuilt in Renaissance style, with its characteristic arcades and richer decoration. In the 19th century the upper floors began to serve as a gallery — today they house an important branch of the National Museum presenting Polish 19th-century painting and applied arts. Under the square’s surface archaeologists uncovered remains of older buildings — wooden streets, foundations of stalls and everyday objects — which now form the basis of the Sukiennice underground route.
Thanks to archaeological work and modern exhibition solutions, a route has been created that shows how the Market Square changed over centuries and what role it played in the trade networks of historic Europe.
The route runs through a number of spaces with reconstructed and preserved fragments of medieval stalls and streets. Highlights include reconstructions of the so-called “Kramy Bogate” — representative merchant stalls projecting over former trade routes — a scale model of the medieval town, fragments of old paving and a rich array of everyday objects: coins, merchant seals, pottery fragments, jewelry and tools. You’ll also see remains of water systems, traces of former crafts workshops (for example a goldsmith’s and a blacksmith’s) and exhibits connected to international trade routes. Multimedia stops and presentations complement the narrative, so the walk is not a dry history lesson but an interactive journey.
Pay attention to the details — traces of former foundations, archaeological finds and reconstructions that show how far below today’s level the old streets once lay. This experience helps you understand how much the market’s space has changed over time.
Kramy Bogate are a concept and a reconstruction of stalls used to sell luxury goods. In the Middle Ages Kraków was an important trade centre at the crossroads of east–west and north–south routes. Merchants offered textiles, raw materials, jewelry, salt and luxury items brought from afar. On the Sukiennice route you can see how stalls were organised, where goods were stored, how important controls of weights and measures were and what security measures were used when transporting valuable products.
The exhibition also reminds visitors that trade was not just an exchange of goods but involved legal regulations, customs duties, craft guilds and a web of social dependencies — from merchants to municipal servants.
At street level the Sukiennice still serve commercial and tourist functions: in the arcades you can buy crafts, amber jewelry and souvenirs. On the upper floor is the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art — a branch of the National Museum — with works by Jan Matejko and other masters of 19th-century Polish painting. It’s worth planning a short break to go up and see the collection, which offers an interesting contrast to the medieval stories told below.
Local legends are part of the place’s charm. One story concerns an iron knife hanging in the passage — a symbol of the harsh penalties under Magdeburg law — and many anecdotes about it are fondly told by guides and locals.
Before starting the route it’s a good idea to check ticket availability and the schedule for guided tours. In summer and at holiday times queues can be long, so I recommend buying tickets online or reserving in advance. There have been days with free entry in the past (for example some Tuesdays) — if you plan to visit on such a day, check the current rules on the museum’s site and bring confirmation of your reservation.
The route is designed for visitor comfort: it runs on ramps and footbridges suspended above archaeological remains, usually takes about 45–75 minutes depending on pace and interest, and some parts of the exhibition are dedicated to children and families. If you have mobility restrictions, check in advance which entrances and facilities are available.
Combine the underground tour with a visit to the Gallery in the Sukiennice or a short walk to nearby museums (Wawel, the Matejko House or the Pharmacy Museum). Morning and early afternoon are usually the best times when crowds are smaller. Wear comfortable shoes — the underground areas and surroundings include cobbles and involve lots of walking. For larger groups it’s good to agree on a specific entry time and consider a guided tour by an official museum guide, which adds details and historical context you may not get from audio guides or labels.
Respect the museum space: photography is usually allowed, but some sections may restrict flash or touching exhibits.
After an intense visit to the underground it’s nice to rest and eat in one of the well-known places around the Market. A few reliable options: Szara (known for classic dishes and an elegant interior), Wierzynek (historic and atmospheric, a good choice for a special occasion), Pod Aniołami (traditional Polish cuisine), Cafe Camelot (a cozy café perfect for coffee and cake) and Massolit Bookstore & Cafe (for book lovers and a calm atmosphere). When choosing a place, check reviews and book a table, especially for evenings and weekends.
If you want something local and quick, try a traditional obwarzanek from a street vendor and a dessert from a pâtisserie — a simple way to recharge between sightseeing and your next plans.
The most common mistake is treating the Market only as a backdrop for photos and missing the underground attractions. The subterranean route offers a different dimension of Kraków worth your time. Another mistake is not reserving in season — tickets can sell out and lines at the ticket office can be long. Not checking museum opening hours and the Gallery’s opening times can also spoil plans.
Avoid disappointment by booking tickets online, arriving early and combining the underground visit with nearby attractions such as the Sukiennice gallery or a short visit to St. Mary’s Basilica.
Today’s Market level is higher than in medieval times — archaeologists have revealed fragments of old streets and buildings lying nearly two metres below the modern surface. In the underground you’ll see not only everyday objects but also evidence of international contacts — imported jewelry, coins and beads. Elements of urban infrastructure, such as fragments of old waterworks or drainage systems, tell a lot about the organisation of daily life in historic Kraków.
Small details like seals and merchant stamps speak about trust and control in trade; things that seem minor were actually the foundation of how the market worked.
How long does the route take? Usually 45–75 minutes, depending on pace and interest. Should I buy a ticket in advance? I recommend buying online or reserving — in season queues are long and entries may be limited. Is the visit suitable for children? Yes — the exhibition has interactive elements and is a friendly way to introduce history to younger visitors, though it’s good to adapt the pace. Is the route accessible for people with reduced mobility? Parts of the route are adapted, but check specific entrances and facilities before your visit. What should I bring? Comfortable shoes, a small backpack, a water bottle and, if you like, a camera (check rules about flash).
If you want a guided visit, the museum organises official tours and at certain exhibitions museum guides and educators provide additional context and stories you won’t get from audio or labels.
After you come up from the route, take a moment to relax on the square: sit in one of the recommended cafés, observe the architecture and compare what you saw underground with the street-level view. If you enjoy photography, look for spots that capture the contrast between the Renaissance façade of the Sukiennice and the Gothic silhouettes of St. Mary’s Basilica. Consider a short walk along the Royal Route — a natural extension of the themes of trade and civic ceremony.
If you enjoyed a practical, focused and friendly way of exploring, you can book a private guided tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz — her offer and contact details are available on the zwiedzaniekrakowa.com site. I recommend a professional guide if you want the visit tailored to your interests and pace.
