Many people come to Wawel with a map of the major sights: the cathedral, the royal chambers, Sigismund's Bell. Few notice, however, that the Wawel hill also has a "20th-century layer" — the story of how the castle became the center of the occupation administration, how the functions of interiors changed, and what traces of those changes survive today. Noticing these elements helps to understand that the history of a place is not only medieval stone, but also dramatic modern events and contemporary practices of memory.
Telling the story of wartime traces at Wawel is not only passing on facts, but also an opportunity to introduce visitors sensitively and responsibly to a difficult, emotionally charged subject. A well-led tour combines knowledge with empathy — this is especially important when dealing with World War II history.
One of the most visible elements from the occupation period is the main gate, which in its present form was created in 1943–1944. Occupation authorities were involved in its design and reconstruction, and there were plans to place a German eagle there that was ultimately never executed. This single feature of the gate reminds us that even seemingly "new" parts of the castle carry a 20th-century historical layer.
The castle interiors bear marks of adaptation to the needs of the German administration. For example, the Senators' Hall was transformed into a recreational and representative space for officials; in some places windows were ordered bricked up or decorations removed to adapt rooms to new functions. These are not only small architectural modifications — they testify to treating the monument as a seat of occupying power rather than a national place of memory.
It is also worth paying attention to stories connected with the Sigismund Tower and the lives of German families within the castle walls. Sources indicate that some rooms were used privately by occupation officials, which gives context for conversations about how the royal chambers’ functions changed during the war.
A large part of the collections and exhibits had been evacuated or moved before the war — some valuable items ended up abroad, others were hidden. The fates of these objects provide material for stories about protecting heritage and the actions of conservators and Kraków residents who tried to save national treasures.
Not all traces are stone or metal. Around Wawel and in Kraków’s museum collections there are documents, photographs, posters and personal items of Kraków residents from the occupation years. These allow us to reconstruct the atmosphere of the city and understand everyday life under the General Government administration.
Important memory institutions in the city — the Museum of Kraków, the Oskar Schindler Factory and other institutions — collect testimonies of martyrdom, photographs and family keepsakes. Montelupich and Pomorska Street appear in local narratives as places of arrests and prisons, so a walking route through Kraków can naturally connect the Wawel story with the wider history of repression and residents’ fates.
Memoirs and eyewitness accounts are valuable material. Increasingly, museums run collections of keepsakes and witness recordings, which allows a guide to enrich the narrative with personal stories, always respecting privacy and context.
Start with what is visible — a reference point helps listeners find their bearings. Show the gate and briefly explain its origin, then move to the interiors and their wartime adaptations. This prevents listeners from becoming lost in the chronology.
Avoid sensationalism. The topic of World War II requires sensitivity — use factual language rather than exaggerated emotional descriptions. Emphasize the human side of history: the fates of particular families, the actions of conservators, the stories of collections being evacuated. This makes the narration both empathetic and reliable.
Connect material traces with the political context. Briefly explain what the General Government was, who Hans Frank was and what the presence of occupation authorities at Wawel meant for Kraków. Simple, clear political framing helps listeners understand why the castle looked and functioned differently then.
Use museum collections and materials. If the group visits exhibits in the Museum of Kraków or other branches, draw on photographs, posters and keepsakes — these bring the story to life. Remember to say where materials come from and that interpretations may vary.
Adapt your tone to the group. Younger visitors need simpler explanations and more vivid examples, while older audiences may want broader context. With international groups, be ready to summarize key information in English and stick to general facts without distortions.
Short route on Wawel (30–45 minutes): main gate — courtyard — cathedral (mentioning Wawel’s role as a seat of occupation authorities) — Senators' Hall (story about adaptations) — finish with guidance where to find more materials in the city (Museum of Kraków, Oskar Schindler Factory).
Extended city route (2–3 hours): Wawel — walk to Pomorska Street and Montelupich (discuss sites of arrests and prisons) — Oskar Schindler Factory (fates of Kraków residents, the ghetto) — Museum of Kraków (collection of keepsakes). Such a route links the castle perspective with everyday urban experience under occupation.
Thematic educational route for youth: short interactive stations with tasks — spotting architectural changes, reading selected posters, discussing how to protect heritage. Interaction helps absorb difficult content and builds empathy.
The Oskar Schindler Factory and its exhibitions are a natural complement to the Wawel story — they show everyday life, the ghetto and the pressure of ideology. The Museum of Kraków gathers family keepsakes, photographs and municipal documents that let you tell the local perspective.
Also pay attention to temporary exhibitions at Kraków institutions, which often address occupation, occupation administrations and memory. Checking current displays before your visit will help enrich the route with fresh, well-composed materials.
If you are interested in police history and repression, sites such as the former prison at Montelupich add difficult but important threads to the narrative about Kraków residents’ fates.
Buy tickets in advance and check opening hours. In the high season, queues and limited access to rooms can lengthen your visit.
If you want a guided tour, choose official guides employed by the museum or professional guiding services. A guide can connect facts with context and ensure sensitivity in the presentation. (If you are interested in an individual thematic tour, Małgorzata Kasprowicz from ZwiedzanieKrakowa offers themed routes around Wawel and Kraków.)
Bring comfortable shoes and a bottle of water. A walk around Wawel and later through the Old Town can be demanding, especially during busy tourist periods.
Be prepared for difficult content. Stories about World War II will include persecution, deportations and genocide. If you travel with children, consider in advance how much to tell and adapt the language to their age.
Are there visible German symbols at Wawel from the occupation? There is no preserved visible Nazi eagle — one was planned for the gate but was never executed. The surviving traces are mainly functional changes and interior adaptations.
Can you enter the spaces used by the Germans? Not all those areas are accessible in a standard visit; many are part of museum exhibitions or castle rooms available on special routes. If you are interested, ask official guides about thematic tours.
Where can I find more keepsakes and documents from the war? City museums and temporary exhibitions in Kraków collect photographs, posters, documents and family mementos. Check individual institutions for current collections and calls for contributions.
Although Wawel is mainly associated with former splendour, during the occupation it functioned as the seat of authorities rather than as a national museum. This fact changes the perspective — residents of Kraków had to see their symbolic site as the seat of a foreign administration.
Some of Wawel's most valuable objects were evacuated before the war and some ended up abroad. The postwar fates of these items varied — this topic links the history of conservation with postwar political decisions.
When telling the Wawel story, it is worth including accounts of people who worked to save the collections — often lesser-known but deeply moving stories.
Mistake: expecting only a medieval story. Many visitors come for a purely "castle" route and do not realize that Wawel embodies a full spectrum of 20th-century history. Solution: choose a thematic route or ask your guide for a short supplement on the occupation period.
Mistake: sensationalizing difficult topics. Emotional descriptions without context can diminish the gravity of the subject. Solution: ask the guide for reliable sources and a coherent narrative based on documents and eyewitness accounts.
Mistake: overlooking local museums. Some temporary exhibitions outside Wawel (for example at the Museum of Kraków or other institutions) contain invaluable material for understanding the war period. Solution: plan time for these institutions too — they will deepen your understanding of the city’s history.
After an intensive route it's good to rest in well-rated local places. The Wierzynek restaurant on the Main Market is a historic spot — suitable for a special meal. For a more relaxed atmosphere try Pod Wawelem, a popular place known for hearty regional portions. For coffee, Café Camelot near the Market is recommended for its ambience and beverage quality.
If you look for accommodation near Wawel, choose hotels and guesthouses within the Old Town so you can easily combine the castle with other points of interest. Always check recent guest reviews and ratings before booking.
Traces of World War II at Wawel are visible, though sometimes subtle — both material adaptations of the castle and collections and stories kept in museums. Telling these traces requires a balance between facts and sensitivity, between local stories and broader historical context.
If you would like to tour Wawel with a route that includes the World War II period, I encourage you to use professional guiding. As a guide (Małgorzata Kasprowicz) I run thematic routes around Wawel and Kraków — fact-based, rich in context and stories, and led with respect for memory. Details about offerings and contact information are available at zwiedzaniekrakowa.com.
If you found this article helpful — share it on social media or send it to friends. Welcome to discovering Kraków with curiosity and respect for its history.
