Ghetto Heroes Square in Podgórze is one of those places in Kraków that looks simple but tells a very complex story. The characteristic installation of metal chairs is a symbol of emptiness and loss — it commemorates the fate of the ghetto’s residents between 1941 and 1943. On the square you’ll also find the former pharmacy "Under the Eagle", today a branch of the Historical Museum of the City of Kraków, associated with Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who helped people confined in the ghetto. The history of this place is powerful and should shape how we approach it — with respect and attentiveness.
Plan your visit so you have time to read the panels, step into the Pharmacy museum and allow a moment for reflection — this is not just a quick photo stop or another item to tick off your list.
The square was redesigned as a space of memory, so when visiting keep the historical context in mind: for many people this place carries strong emotional weight.
Treating memorials as photo backdrops without thinking — taking lighthearted or joking photos with the sculptures, climbing on elements of the installation, or being loud during ceremonies. These actions hurt local memory and other visitors.
Rushing through the memorial area and skipping official exhibitions — visitors often bypass the "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy or museum displays because they "don’t have time." That’s a mistake — the exhibitions explain context and give meaning to what you see outside.
Planning visits for the busiest tourist hours — arriving at midday or on a weekend without tickets or reservations to museums can lead to long queues and frustration. For some exhibitions it’s worth buying tickets in advance.
Keep quiet and restrained on the square and inside the museum. Think of the place as a space of memory, not a stage for social media.
Do not climb on the installation; don’t pose on the chair-sculptures. Photographs are fine if taken discreetly and respectfully — avoid poses that suggest joking or a lack of seriousness.
If you encounter a commemorative event (anniversaries, memorial walks), give way and do not disturb. Around the dates connected to the ghetto’s liquidation there may be more official ceremonies.
Podgórze lies across the Vistula from the Old Town — allow time to walk or take a short tram/bus ride. In high season account for walking time and traffic lights when planning connections between sites.
Buy tickets in advance for popular exhibitions and museums (including the nearby Schindler’s Factory). If your stay is short, choose a maximum of two to three places a day so the visit stays comfortable and thoughtful.
Check opening hours for the "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy and other museum branches — some have reduced hours or closed days, especially outside the high season.
Trying to see "everything" in one day — the result is tiredness and a superficial experience. Better to pick a few places and spend time at them.
Failing to plan tickets for the most popular attractions — no reservation can mean long waits. Book ahead for temporary exhibitions and the Schindler’s Factory museum.
Ignoring public transport rules — remember to validate/activate your ticket and avoid peak hours when possible. Use maps and city apps to plan routes and avoid unnecessary wandering.
After a walk it’s good to choose places with solid reputations and reliable cooking. A few well-known and appreciated spots in the city centre and Kazimierz that often get good reviews: Szara (Main Market Square), Starka (Kazimierz) and Wierzynek (for a special, historic atmosphere).
Around Podgórze and Zabłocie you’ll also find intimate cafes and restaurants with high ratings — perfect for a break after the memory trail. It’s always wise to check current recommendations and reserve a table at weekends.
If you need accommodation near the centre with quiet access to Podgórze, pick places that have good guest reviews — apartments around Kazimierz and the Old Town are convenient, but check distances to the sites you want to visit.
Although Ghetto Heroes Square looks like a contemporary public space, the installation’s elements refer to descriptions of abandoned furniture and belongings left during liquidation actions — the idea draws on witnesses’ memories and literature about the pharmacy.
The "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy was the only pharmacy operating inside the ghetto and a place where Tadeusz Pankiewicz helped residents in many ways; today an exhibition inside completes the story visitors see on the square.
The square’s redesign with the chairs was completed in the early 21st century — it shows how contemporary art and architecture can shape a space of memory.
Is visiting Ghetto Heroes Square free? Yes — the square is a public space and access to the installation is free, but entry to the "Under the Eagle" Pharmacy and other museum displays usually requires a ticket.
How much time do I need? Allow 45 minutes to 1.5 hours to calmly see the square and make a short visit to the Pharmacy; plan more time if you intend to visit other museums nearby.
Can I take photos? Photography outside the museum displays is allowed, but do it respectfully — avoid images that could be seen as inappropriate. Inside museums check the rules — some exhibitions may restrict photography.
When planning to visit Podgórze and Ghetto Heroes Square remember to allow time, book tickets where needed and act with respect. Let the place tell its story; don’t rush it or treat it as just "another stop."
If you found this text useful, share it with friends or on social media — it will help others prepare for a visit to Kraków. If you’d like to explore Kraków with a guide, consider private tours with Małgorzata Kasprowicz — contact and tailored route options are available on the site. Thank you for reading and I wish you a calm, reflective visit to Kraków!
