Wawel is not only a royal courtyard and cathedral - it is also a place that bears the marks of dramatic changes from the period of German occupation. On the hill you can find both material and immaterial traces: architectural alterations made by the occupiers, stories of looted artworks, accounts of people who tried to protect monuments, and memories of how the castle's role changed between 1939 and 1945.
Although many current exhibitions focus on earlier eras, the historical context is worth noticing: during the war Wawel became a seat for occupation authorities, and areas around the hill were the scene of German adaptations and interventions. Walking through the courtyards and gardens, it’s easy to notice layers of alteration and reconstruction from different stages of the site’s history.
After September 1939 Krakow became an administrative center of the General Government. The city experienced repression, demographic changes and the plunder of artworks; cultural institutions and monuments were adapted to serve the occupier.
At Wawel, adaptation and investment works were carried out to prepare the hill for the representative functions of occupation authorities. At the same time there were many cases of removal and disappearance of objects and obstacles to protecting and conserving the monuments.
Courtyards and castle wings - pay attention to layers of rebuilding and the heterogeneity of architectural elements; some modifications date from the occupation or from postwar reconstructions.
The Royal Gardens and their history - the gardens were redesigned several times in the 20th century; some changes relate to the occupation period and later restorations. Looking at layout and plantings you may spot traces of earlier urban decisions.
Signs of conservation and collection replenishment - after the war many gaps in the castle’s fittings were filled through donations, conservation work and recovery of works from looted storages; this is part of Wawel’s postwar story.
Start: Wawel Hill - a short walk around the courtyards, a look at the cathedral and a conversation about how Wawel’s function changed in the 20th century.
Walk towards the Planty and continue to Kazimierz/Podgórze - this walk is a good way to combine a Wawel visit with memorial sites and museums that tell the story of Krakow under occupation.
Oskar Schindler's Enamel Factory (ul. Lipowa 4) - if you have the time, it’s a must-see: the exhibition focuses on city life under occupation and complements the picture of changes beyond the castle walls.
Tickets and visiting limits - in season spaces for popular exhibitions and entry times can be limited; check opening hours and, if possible, book tickets in advance or come early in the morning.
Pace your visit - plan short stops: 20–30 minutes for the courtyard and cathedral, 1–1.5 hours for a museum (for example the Schindler exhibition). If you want to enter the castle interiors, add time for ticket queues and access checks.
Respect and sensitivity - the topic of war and the Holocaust is difficult. In memorial sites keep silence and show respect; avoid making jokes about wartime themes and take care with photography so it remains appropriate.
Podgórze and the former site of the Płaszów labor and concentration camp - places that help you understand life in the occupied city beyond representative squares.
Museum of Krakow - Oskar Schindler's Enamel Factory branch - a modern, immersive exhibition about daily life, the ghetto and the fates of prisoners, with powerful testimonies.
City memorials and monuments - obelisks, plaques and Jewish memorial sites scattered through the city; short stops at these places will help build a fuller picture of Krakow residents’ wartime experiences.
Wawel was not only an “occupation headquarters” - its spaces were also sites of negotiations, adaptation works and actions in which some local conservators tried to protect monuments, sometimes operating from underground networks.
After the war many works ‘returned’ to Krakow as part of recovery efforts; some collections were reconstructed thanks to the work of museum staff and donors.
Not all wartime traces are easy to spot with the naked eye - some are documents, inventories and the provenances of paintings recorded in archives. If you enjoy 'reading' history, visit museum branches and libraries with resources on wartime losses.
Thinking Wawel is only medieval tombs - that’s a trap. To understand the impact of the war you should combine a hill walk with museums and memorial sites around the city.
Rushing past memorial sites - take a moment for reflection; a quick souvenir photo is not the same as paying proper respect.
Not reading the context before visiting - a short read of museum texts or a brief chat with a guide will help you understand the significance of each place and avoid oversimplified conclusions.
Are signs of bomb damage visible at Wawel? - In the immediate Wawel landscape wartime damage is not as obvious as in some other cities; many changes are the result of adaptation, looting and postwar reconstruction.
Is Schindler’s Factory far from Wawel? - It’s just a short tram ride or a longer walk across bridges and the Planty; connecting both sites is a natural route for a Krakow wartime history trail.
Is the topic suitable for younger students? - Many exhibitions cover difficult subjects. If you plan to visit with younger people, check age recommendations for exhibitions and prepare to discuss sensitive topics in an age-appropriate way.
Wierzynek - the historic restaurant on the Main Market Square, for those who want a sense of old tradition and don’t mind spending a bit more.
Pod Wawelem Kompania Kuflowa - a traditional, lively pub right under the castle; good for a warm, filling meal after a long walk.
Café Camelot (near the Market) or Massolit Books & Cafe (Kazimierz) - if you prefer something lighter and atmospheric, these cafés are popular with students and visitors.
Milk bar and local bistros - if you want a cheaper, student-style option look for milk bars around Kazimierz and on streets crossing the Planty.
Remember that visiting memorial sites is not just tourism - it’s an encounter with people’s history. Try to keep a balanced tone and show respect.
If you want to deepen your knowledge - use local temporary exhibitions and educational programs. Krakow museums often offer activities or materials in English for international groups.
Talk to local guides - they can provide both factual knowledge and personal stories that are not always in guidebooks. If you prefer a private guide who combines solid historical knowledge with friendly group leadership, consider arranging a tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz via zwiedzaniekrakowa.com.
If this guide helped you plan your visit - share it with your Erasmus friends, send it to colleagues or post a short report with photos on social media.
If you’d like to explore Wawel and the surroundings with a guide who combines solid historical knowledge with friendly group leadership - consider booking a tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz. More details can be found on zwiedzaniekrakowa.com.
Good luck uncovering the less obvious layers of Krakow’s history - attentive visiting can reveal stories that stay with you for a long time.
