The Market Square Underground and the Ethnographic Museum are two very different but complementary Kraków attractions. The Underground reveals the city’s archaeological layers — remnants of wooden houses, workshops and old streets — while the Ethnographic Museum shows everyday life, costumes and crafts from Polish villages and smaller towns. Together they give a fuller picture of the city’s and region’s history and culture.
If you enjoy hands-on history, models and reconstructions, interactive displays and beautiful colorful folk costumes — plan to visit both sites. Check opening hours and ticket information in advance, because both can be busy, especially during the tourist season.
The Market Square Underground is an archaeological museum located a few meters beneath the Main Market Square. The exhibition presents remains of medieval buildings, craft workshops, everyday objects and reconstructions that help imagine city life from centuries ago.
Multimedia and models are often used in the Underground to 'bring excavations to life' — there are panels, animations and spatial installations. Families with children will find play areas and interactive panels, as well as short storytelling formats that help engage younger visitors.
Practical note: the entrance to the Underground is in the area of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) with access from the side of St. Mary’s Basilica. In recent years the ticket office and ticketing points have sometimes been moved within the historic complexes, so it’s a good idea to buy tickets online or check where the box office is located before you arrive.
The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum houses collections on folk culture and material tradition: regional costumes, embroidery, everyday objects, craft products and temporary exhibitions focused on various ethnographic phenomena. The institution has permanent displays and branches in historic locations including the former Kazimierz Town Hall (Wolnica Square) and the Dom Esterki on ul. Krakowska.
The museum’s history dates back to the early 20th century — the collection was started thanks to the passion of Seweryn Udziela, and since then the museum has developed exhibitions and educational programs for all ages. The museum frequently runs workshops, family activities and demonstrations of traditional craft techniques.
Opening hours and ticket prices can change, so the safest option is to check the current information on the museums’ official pages before you go. Generally: the Ethnographic Museum is usually open Tuesday to Sunday (often around 10:00-19:00), while the Market Square Underground tends to have extended hours on weekends and shorter hours during weekdays — there may also be occasional closures for technical reasons.
Ticket prices for the Underground and the Ethnographic Museum vary by category (regular, reduced, family, group) and are occasionally updated. In practice, regular tickets for the Underground typically fall in the range of about 30-45 PLN; there are also family tickets and discounts for holders of city cards. The Ethnographic Museum sells tickets for the permanent exhibition and for temporary shows — there are sometimes reduced or free-entry days (for example certain Tuesdays or special initiatives), so check before you visit.
How to buy tickets: online is best — it saves time and lets you choose an entry time. If you prefer an on-site box office, remember the Underground’s ticket desk has sometimes been moved within the Cloth Hall area or to a visitor service center — check in advance where to buy your ticket. Organized groups often follow different rules and prices, and guided tours may be charged separately.
Contact and practical details for the Ethnographic Museum: reception and office contacts (phone numbers and addresses) are available on the museum’s site — main seats include Wolnica Square 1 (Kazimierz Town Hall) and Dom Esterki at ul. Krakowska 46.
Visit length: Underground — plan at least 45-90 minutes depending on your pace and interest; Ethnographic Museum — about 1-1.5 hours for the permanent exhibition, longer if you join workshops or see temporary shows.
Accessibility: both sites offer solutions for visitors with limited mobility, but check the details in advance (lifts, alternative routes). The Underground is partly below ground and can be cooler and damper than the surface — bring a light extra layer.
What to bring: comfortable shoes (the Underground includes excavation areas and paths you’ll use for an extended time), a camera, a notebook and — if you plan to join workshops — be prepared to pay by card or cash depending on the organizer.
Suggested route: start at the Market Square Underground (located under the Main Market Square) — it’s an excellent way to begin the day, especially in the morning before the Market fills with people. After the Underground, grab coffee and a snack nearby (there are charming cafés around the Square), then walk across the bridge or along the Planty to Kazimierz where the Ethnographic Museum is located (Wolnica Square / Dom Esterki on ul. Krakowska).
Combining both visits creates a striking contrast: first the 'city under the city', then the life and traditions of the region — this is also a great plan for families and anyone who enjoys varied cultural experiences. Reserve time for a lunch break in one of the recommended Kazimierz restaurants.
Recommended places near the Market and Kazimierz (selected and well-rated): Wierzynek — a historic restaurant on the Main Market Square for those who want to feel a special atmosphere and try classic Polish dishes; Cafe Camelot — a cozy spot for coffee and cake near the Market; Massolit Books & Cafe — a great combination of bookstore and café in Kazimierz; Starka — a popular Kazimierz restaurant serving Polish and regional dishes.
If you need accommodation, the best options are hotels and guesthouses near the Market or close to the main train station for convenient transport. For a historical atmosphere consider boutique hotels on the Old Town. Recommendation: book ahead in high season.
Not booking tickets in advance — during high season or on free-entry days (e.g. some Tuesdays) queues can be long. Buy online when possible.
Arriving without a plan — both places are best visited in quieter times (morning or late afternoon) to better appreciate the displays and avoid crowds.
Wearing footwear unsuitable for an underground exhibition — the Underground can be cooler; very delicate high-heeled shoes are not recommended.
Not checking the exact location of the Underground ticket office — the box office has sometimes been moved, so arriving without checking may be confusing.
Are there family and reduced-price tickets? Yes — most museums offer reduced, family and concession tickets and discounts for holders of certain cards (for example the Large Family Card). Check rules at the desk or online.
Is the Underground suitable for children? Yes — there are interactive parts and child-friendly zones, but younger children may tire quickly. Families should plan shorter visits or include breaks.
Can you enter with a backpack? Many museums request that backpacks be carried in front or left in a cloakroom if available. Check the rules at the entrance.
Can tickets be refunded? Refund rules depend on the purchase method (box office vs. online sale). If you buy via a museum website, read the sales policy.
The Underground often shows items directly buried beneath the Market surface — these finds tell stories about the daily life of medieval Kraków residents, not just major historical events.
The Ethnographic Museum traces its roots to a collection started by Seweryn Udziela — an enthusiast and researcher of folk culture from the early 20th century. Thanks to that beginning, the institution has more than a century of tradition in collecting and preserving material heritage.
If this article helped you, share it with friends and tag the people you plan to visit with — your share may make someone else’s planning easier!
If you prefer to explore with someone who will point out the most interesting details and tailor the route to your interests, consider booking a guided tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz. Contact information for guided visits is available on zwiedzaniekrakowa.com. A private guide can make your visit more comfortable and enriched with local stories.
Good luck planning your visit and enjoy discovering Kraków! If you’d like, I can create a short timed route tailored to your available hours and interests.
