Kraków has preserved many places of memory connected to World War II — from plaques and gates, through synagogues and pharmacies, to the grounds of a former camp. An evening walk lets you see these places in a different light: less tourist bustle, more silence and time for reflection. This route is “with class” — calm, considered and respectful of the victims’ memory, without sensationalism.
I propose a route focused on two neighbouring areas: Kazimierz (the historic Jewish district) and Podgorze (the site of the ghetto and later the Płaszów camp), visiting the most important points best experienced in fading light. For those interested I suggest short extensions (Collegium Novum, Nowa Huta). The route takes around 1.5–3 hours depending on pace and any museum visits. We keep a solemn tone and behaviour — this is not an entertainment stroll but a route of remembrance. Remember: not all museums are open late, so check availability and opening hours before planning a visit.
Based on available information I prepared a practical, visitor-friendly route — with tips on where to pause, what to look at carefully and where to eat or have coffee after the walk.
- Time: the best effect comes from starting about one hour before sunset and continuing into the evening. In spring and summer you can sometimes combine museum visits with the evening walk; in winter it’s better to visit museums earlier in the day.
- Reservations and tickets: Schindler’s Factory (a branch of the Museum of Kraków) is popular and limits entries; if you plan to go inside, check availability and book tickets in advance.
- Clothing and pace: comfortable shoes, a light jacket (evenings can be chilly), and a phone flashlight — not for drama, but to read historical plaques and spot details in cemeteries.
- Behaviour: keep silence and show respect at sites of memory, especially in cemeteries and at monuments. Do not sit on commemorative elements (for example, on the chairs at Ghetto Heroes Square).
- Safety: Kraków is usually safe in the evening, but keep your documents with you and be aware of your surroundings — especially when taking photos after dark.
- Accessibility: some sites have limited access for people with reduced mobility — if this matters, check accessibility information on museum pages.
Start: Collegium Novum / near the Main Market Square (optional) - if you have time you can begin with a short stop at the Jagiellonian University building. This place recalls Sonderaktion Krakau (6 November 1939) — the arrest of professors and an attack on the academic community. A short talk about this event gives broader context for the Old Town surroundings.
Step 1: Walk to Kazimierz — Szeroka and Miodowa streets. Kazimierz was the centre of a thriving pre-war Jewish community for centuries. In the evening light pause at the synagogues, wander along Szeroka and the squares, and look for small details: inscriptions, fragments of old signs and the textures of walls. The Remuh synagogue and cemetery are places that call for a quiet, measured approach.
Step 2: Cross the river toward Podgorze. A walk along the Vistula makes a beautiful introduction to the second part of the route. From the bridge or the river boulevards you can view Wawel and the buildings of Podgorze — a good moment to pause and take a photograph of the panorama.
Step 3: Ghetto Heroes Square (formerly Plac Zgody). This memorial is one of the most powerful sites in the area: scattered empty metal chairs symbolise the possessions and fate of those deported. In the evening, under soft lighting, the square invites reflection. Nearby stands the former pharmacy — the “Pharmacy Under the Eagle.”
Step 4: Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Plac Bohaterow Getta 18) — visit the interior if the museum is open. Here Tadeusz Pankiewicz helped ghetto residents; the exhibition tells individual stories and shows how an ordinary shop became a place of rescue and care. Bear in mind opening hours — evening visits can be limited.
Step 5: Schindler’s Factory (ul. Lipowa 4) and the MOCAK area. This is a key stop linking personal stories with industrial history and the fate of many families. Even from the outside, the factory area and the modern MOCAK halls make a strong impression. If you plan to enter the museum, book a ticket in advance; the exhibition addresses life in occupied Kraków and the experiences of factory workers.
Step 6: The former Płaszów camp area — memorial and the organized post-camp site. This is the heaviest stop on the route: it recalls violence and mass crimes. Contemporary work by memory institutions (Museum — Płaszów Memorial Site) aims to structure the area and create a space of remembrance. Walking around the camp’s edges requires respect and silence.
- Collegium Novum / Sonderaktion Krakau: the story of professors’ arrests — an example of occupation measures against intellectual elites.
- Kazimierz (Remuh, synagogues, townhouses): traces of pre-war Jewish culture, urban changes, architectural details and cemetery symbolism. Remuh and its cemetery are places of silence and memory; take time to read inscriptions.
- Ghetto Heroes Square and the Pharmacy Under the Eagle: the setting of deportations, testimony of help and resistance within the ghetto; places that connect personal stories with collective tragedy.
- Schindler’s Factory: the story of people saved through courage and contacts; the museum also shows everyday life in occupied Kraków.
- Płaszów: testimony to the violence of the camp system inside the city; monuments, information panels and the post-camp grounds create a memory space that does not allow forgetting.
After the walk it’s nice to sit in one of the cosy cafés or restaurants in Kazimierz or near Schindler’s Factory. A few suggestions that work well after this route:
- Café Camelot (Kazimierz) — a cosy café, good for an evening tea or coffee after walking around Kazimierz.
- Szara Kazimierz — an elegant spot for dinner in the heart of Kazimierz; recommended if you want regional dishes in a pleasant atmosphere.
- MOCAK Cafe (near Schindler’s Factory) — if you are by Schindler’s Factory and prefer something more modern, the museum café is a convenient place to rest.
Note: these are examples of well-known places — during an evening walk you’ll find many small cafés and bars with friendly service. If you prefer something quick, Plac Nowy in Kazimierz offers local snacks, but after a route focused on memory it’s nice to choose a calm and understated venue.
- Photographing sites of memory is allowed, but moderation is important. Avoid staging stylised poses directly in front of monuments to victims.
- Do not sit on memorial elements or use them as props for “stylish” photos.
- If you see people praying or paying tribute, keep your distance and do not disturb.
- Nowa Huta — wartime-related sites on the outskirts: places associated with mass executions and post-war experiences of residents; it is worth visiting the Nowa Huta Museum or taking a short local guided walk to these sites.
- Rakowicki Cemetery — graves of professors, war victims and memorial places connected with Kraków’s academic community; especially significant on certain anniversaries (6 November, 1 September).
- Walk along the Vistula boulevards — if you want to soften the tone of the evening, a short walk along the river towards Wawel helps calm emotions and offers a different perspective on the city.
Is the route safe in the evening? - Yes, the main parts of the route (Kazimierz, Podgorze, the Schindler’s Factory area) are frequented and usually safe. As always, keep your documents and watch your belongings.
Do I have to enter museums? - No. The route is designed so the most important points can be seen from outside. Museum visits (Pharmacy Under the Eagle, Schindler’s Factory, KL Płaszów Museum) enrich the narrative, but the route still holds educational and commemorative value without them.
How much time should I allow? - Typically 1.5–3 hours, depending on stops and any museum visits.
Is this route suitable for families with children? - Yes, but adapt the length and tone of the story to children’s ages. Younger kids may need shorter, simpler explanations and more breaks.
Can I take photos with my phone? - Yes, but with moderation and respect. Avoid flash in enclosed places, as it can disturb others and damage delicate exhibits.
- Memory is not sensational tourism. Adopt an attitude of listening and observation — plan time for silence and reflection.
- Try to combine facts with empathy: every monument remembers a specific person or group. Read plaques, look for stories in museums if you want to deepen your knowledge.
- If you want to learn more after you return home, consult books and publications from local museums and historical articles — it’s a constructive way to close the walk with further reflection.
- Enjoy a calm, respectful walk — with class and regard for Kraków’s history.
