Kraków is not only Gothic towers and a lively Main Square — it is also a place of deep memory. During World War II the city went through dramatic changes: the ghetto in Podgórze, factories and subcamps, the Płaszów camp and the everyday reality of occupation. Today these events can be read in the streets, museums and monuments. Visiting these places helps you understand the city’s history and the lives of people whose fates left permanent marks here. This guide offers a thoughtful weekend route — at a pace that allows time for reflection and rest in some of the city’s best local cafés and restaurants.
Please treat these places with respect: they are spaces of memory, not scenery. Before entering museums check opening hours and visiting rules, and keep silence and a respectful distance at monuments.
Start point: the area around Lipowa Street and Ghetto Heroes Square (Plac Bohaterów Getta). Begin your morning at Schindler’s Factory — a branch of the Historical Museum of the City of Kraków that tells the story of Kraków under occupation. The exhibition leads through the factory spaces and presents everyday life, the ghetto, subcamps and attempts to save people. Display cases contain authentic documents and testimonies that give the narrative a personal dimension.
When you leave the factory, a short walk brings you to Ghetto Heroes Square. The installation of empty metal chairs commemorates the sudden departure of ghetto residents and makes a powerful impression — take time here for reflection and photography, but do not stand on the chairs or behave loudly.
In the afternoon visit the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orłem) — the place where Tadeusz Pankiewicz, the only Pole to run a pharmacy inside the ghetto, helped residents by supplying medicine and hiding people. The small exhibition in the original premises can be more moving than many larger museum halls.
The labor camp and later concentration camp at Płaszów is a place worth visiting on the second day. It’s just a few kilometers from the Main Square, but the atmosphere and significance of this area are heavy. On the former camp grounds you will find monuments, plaques and commemorative sites that recall thousands of prisoners, among them Jews, Poles and citizens of other nationalities. Tens of thousands of people passed through Płaszów; some studies estimate prisoner numbers in the tens of thousands and victims in the thousands.
The area is currently being protected as a place of memory, and the KL Płaszów Memorial Site Museum is being developed to organize the narrative and prepare a permanent exhibition. Even without a finished exhibition, a walk around the former camp and a visit to the monuments lets you feel the scale of tragedy and understand how close sites of repression were to the city center.
Day 1: Schindler’s Factory (Lipowa) → Ghetto Heroes Square (Pharmacy Under the Eagle) → walk around Podgórze and a café break. Day 2: Former Płaszów camp area, memorials and the Gray House (Szary Dom) → return by tram or taxi to the center for dinner.
Suggested visit time at each stop: 1–2 hours at Schindler’s Factory, 30–45 minutes at the square and the pharmacy, and 1–2 hours at Płaszów depending on whether you use a guide. The route is flexible — if your time is limited, prioritize Schindler’s Factory and Ghetto Heroes Square.
Buy tickets online where possible, especially for Schindler’s Factory — weekend slots can fill up. Check opening hours for municipal museums and memorial sites outside peak season; some places have different hours in winter and summer.
Transport: Podgórze and Płaszów are easily reachable by public transport (trams and buses) and by taxi. Walking from the Main Market to some points is an option for those who enjoy a stroll — allow about 30–45 minutes to walk to Schindler’s Factory.
Comfort: bring comfortable shoes, water and a light coat (Kraków’s weather can change quickly). Museums are often kept cool for conservation reasons — bring an extra layer. There aren’t always food outlets on memorial grounds, so plan café or meal breaks in nearby neighborhoods.
After a day full of history it’s good to relax in reputable places. In Kazimierz and Podgórze you’ll find cafés and restaurants with strong reviews — look for places offering local cuisine and good feedback. Near Schindler’s Factory there are cafés by the museum and lunch options at nearby bazaars and eateries.
For dinner, choose well-reviewed restaurants in Kazimierz if you want to try traditional dishes and soak up the atmosphere. Reserving a table on a weekend evening is sensible.
The installation of empty chairs at Ghetto Heroes Square was inspired by the memories of Tadeusz Pankiewicz and symbolizes abandoned homes and the absence of people — a simple but extremely powerful concept that stays with many visitors.
On the Płaszów grounds, some tombstones from Jewish cemeteries were used for building roads and camp structures — one of the facts that shows the brutality and indifference of the occupier. This is also why the site is historically sensitive and requires a delicate approach when visiting.
Thinking that ‘it’s just a few points on the map’ — visiting places of memory requires time and reflection. Plan enough time for each stop so you don’t skim the surface.
Lack of respect for memorial sites — sitting on monument elements, making noise or behaving inappropriately during prayers and ceremonies. Keep quiet and respectful distance.
Not checking updates — some exhibitions or memory sites may be temporarily closed or have limited access due to conservation work or exhibitions. Check official museum information before your visit.
Is the route accessible for visitors with limited mobility? Not all places are fully accessible; some memorial areas are open with uneven surfaces. Municipal museums provide accessibility information on their sites — check in advance.
How much time do I need to see everything? A weekend (1–2 days) lets you see the key places: Schindler’s Factory, Ghetto Heroes Square, the Pharmacy Under the Eagle and the Płaszów area. For deeper understanding, plan more time for exhibitions and reading educational materials.
Can I take photos everywhere? In most outdoor areas you can photograph respectfully, but museums may restrict flash photography or ban photography in certain rooms. Always follow the rules on site.
If this text helped you plan your visit, share it with friends or on your social profiles — the more people visit places of memory with respect, the better we preserve the memory of the past.
If you’d like to tour with a local private guide, I recommend using the services of Małgorzata Kasprowicz — a guide whose contact is available via the zwiedzaniekrakowa.com site. A guide can tailor the route to your interests, pace and group needs — from fact-focused tours to more reflective visits to memorials.
Thank you for reading. I wish you visits full of learning, respect and understanding. If you’d like, I can help refine the route for your travel dates or interests.
