Yes — just go a little further than the most famous spots and choose a route made up of places that keep memory alive but do not draw mass tourism. Kraków has several such "quiet" areas: parts of Kazimierz, Podgórze with the Pharmacy Under the Eagle, the former Płaszów camp grounds, the fort hilltops with execution sites, and the bunkers and traces of labor camps around Nowa Huta. This text arranges a practical, visitor-friendly route for you and offers advice on how to visit respectfully and unhurriedly.
In the article you will find suggestions for shorter and longer route variants, practical tips, ideas for coffee breaks, and the best ways to avoid the biggest crowds. You can treat this route as a checklist for independent exploration or as inspiration for a walk with a private guide.
There are several reasons: silence helps you read the signs of memory better — plaques, architectural details, and small inscriptions; fewer pedestrians give space for reflection; off-season or early morning you can take photos without crowds and relax in local cafes that are not packed. Additionally, many memorial sites lie outside the strict city center, so a walk through these areas also offers a different view of the city — its suburbs, fortifications, and working-class districts, which play an important role in the wartime story.
The route I suggest mixes places easily reachable by public transport with green fragments and venues recommended by locals, so the visit is comfortable and full of context. At the same time we avoid the largest tourist "magnets" — if you want less noise and more substance.
Start: Kazimierz — head to Szeroka Street and take a moment for a "broad perspective" of the neighborhood — here you can more easily notice the contrast between the prewar fabric and postwar changes. Visit the Old Synagogue and then walk to the gate at Remuh, followed by a short stroll to Miodowa Street by the Tempel synagogue. This compact set of stops lets you feel the layers of history without covering large distances.
Option: instead of finishing in Kazimierz you can cross to the other bank of the Vistula and visit the Ghetto Heroes Square and the Pharmacy Under the Eagle — a very intimate memorial site in Podgórze, often less crowded than big museums.
Kazimierz: start early in the morning, when the light is soft, and treat the streets like layers of a story — façades, inscriptions, entrances to buildings that once housed prayer houses. Pay attention to patches of plaster that differ from the original brickwork — these are often traces of postwar repairs.
Podgórze: crossing the river to the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (a museum space located on the territory of the former ghetto) gives perspective on the occupational topography of the city — here you can reflect on everyday acts of courage and the help that took place within the ghetto's boundaries.
The former Płaszów camp grounds: this is a place with heavy symbolic weight, today arranged as a Place of Remembrance. Parts of the area and an outdoor exhibition are open to visitors, and there are informational points and memorial plaques on site. The experience here is solemn, and it is worth allowing time to read the panels slowly and to pause in silence.
Practical time: allow loose 2–4 hours for this version — unhurried, with a coffee break and a short rest. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a water bottle.
Fort Krzesławice (Fort 49) — a site of executions between 1939 and 1941, today marked and relatively peaceful. There are memorial plaques and a mass grave nearby, and in the fort walls you can still notice bullet marks. This place calls for silence and attention; few people come here, so it is easy to have an intimate encounter with history.
Fort 52 "Borek" — interesting for its fortification layer and less obvious traces of history. After revitalization the fort is also a cultural and park space, so walking around the ramparts combines contact with history and calm relaxation. In the area there are plaques and local stories about wartime events and postwar adaptations.
These places are suitable if you want to feel the "silent" fragments of history — forts are usually not crowded during weekdays and are excellent for long, peaceful walks.
Nowa Huta is not only about the People's Republic period — on the outskirts of the former village of Mogiła and in the Bieńczyce area you will find places connected to labor camps and executions. The Museum of Nowa Huta and exhibitions devoted to bunkers and the "atomic fear" are a good starting point if you are curious about lesser-known, technical traces of the twentieth century.
Many bunkers remain in Nowa Huta — some are partially accessible, and in some places thematic walks are organized. A stroll through the housing estates and parks shows how the war and postwar events impacted residents' everyday space.
If you want to include Nowa Huta in your route, plan at least two hours for it; it's convenient to combine it with a tram ride or a short transfer, since it is several kilometers from the center.
Kazimierz: Szara Kazimierz — a restaurant appreciated for its quality and atmosphere, a good choice after a neighborhood walk. Hamsa Hummus & Happiness — a popular spot for Middle Eastern cuisine, convenient for a quick and tasty meal near Remuh and Szeroka.
Podgórze / Ghetto Heroes Square: after visiting the Pharmacy Under the Eagle look for small, intimate cafes around the square and Lwowska Street that offer quiet and local pastries. Nowa Huta: cafes near the Museum of Nowa Huta and small places by the Nowa Huta Reservoir are good for a break.
Note: check opening hours before you go (they can change), and in high season consider booking a table at more renowned places. If you like, I can prepare an up-to-date list of venues and opening hours before your trip.
Setting out on a "memory route" without emotional preparation — sites connected to victims require silence and respect. Avoid loud conversations and jokes while visiting.
Assuming you can see everything in an hour — it is better to choose a smaller part of the route and see it calmly than to rush through many points and not have time to read the panels.
Photographing without thought — in memorial places avoid posing and photos that may be perceived as disrespectful; ask whether it is allowed to photograph interior museum spaces and exhibitions.
Best times: early mornings (9:00–11:00) or late afternoons (around 16:00–18:00) — the light is gentle and pedestrian traffic is lower. On weekends some places may be busier, so if silence matters choose a weekday.
Transport: most of the described places are well connected by trams and buses. From Kazimierz to Podgórze and Płaszów you can use public transport or walk across the bridge, and Nowa Huta is more convenient to reach by tram. The fort hilltops lie in areas best explored on foot after arriving as close as possible by public transport.
Behavior: wear comfortable shoes, bring water, carry tissues and a small bag for trash — let's care for memorial places. Some sites require tickets or prior registration for interior access — check the institution's page before you go.
Is the route safe? Yes, these are standard urban and park areas; as always, take basic precautions with personal belongings.
Do I need tickets? Some museum branches (for example the Schindler Factory) require tickets, but many outdoor memorials, monuments and parts of the Płaszów grounds are accessible free of charge.
How much time to plan? Short version: 60–90 minutes. Full version: 2–4 hours. A full-day visit combining Nowa Huta and the forts requires 6–8 hours with breaks.
Is the route suitable for families with children? Yes, but when choosing sites with strong content (Płaszów, execution sites) plan age-appropriate conversations and shorter stops.
In Kraków, beyond the well-known sites there are bunkers and underground relics that most tourists do not think about — some of these are in Nowa Huta and have only recently been explored and partially opened to visitors.
The Kraków forts have a long history — many of them served different functions across the 19th and 20th centuries, from Austrian fortifications to places used during the occupation; today some serve culture and recreation.
If you found this text useful, share it with friends or on social media — it will help reach people who want to discover Kraków more calmly and mindfully.
If you prefer to explore with a guide, I invite you to use the private guiding services of Małgorzata Kasprowicz - details are available at zwiedzaniekrakowa.com. A private tour lets you tailor the route to your emotions, time and interests.
