Wit Stwosz’s altarpiece, carved between 1477 and 1489, is not only an impressive collection of sculptures — it was also a major expense in its day, comparable to important municipal budgets. That alone tells you how central the theme was and how important Mary was in the city’s religious and social life.
If you look at the altarpiece as a "book" whose text is arranged in images, you’ll notice that the artist and his patrons had a clear intention: to present the story of Salvation from Mary’s perspective, linking theology with the everyday life of medieval Kraków.
Wit Stwosz’s altarpiece is a pentaptych — a main central shrine with two pairs of wings, of which only the inner wings are movable. That meant the visual program changed with feasts and the liturgy: a closed view (everyday) and an open view (festive).
Materials and scale impress: the frame is oak, the backdrop larch, and more than 200 figures were carved in linden (lime) wood. The tallest sculptures measure around 2.7 m, and the whole ensemble is roughly 13 m high and nearly 11 m wide — giving a monumental effect at every glance.
When you enter the Basilica, take a moment to find the right distance. Standing too close distorts proportions; too far and you’ll miss details. If you have a small travel binocular or a zoom lens, now is a good time to use it.
The altarpiece follows a clear narrative logic. At the lowest level (the predella) is the Tree of Jesse — the genealogy of Christ. It’s the starting point: it shows the roots from which the story of salvation grows.
In the central scene of the shrine you’ll find monumental sculptures of the Dormition (the Falling Asleep) of the Blessed Virgin Mary surrounded by the apostles; above it — the Assumption; and at the crowning — the Coronation of Mary as Queen of Heaven. That’s a hierarchy: from earthly event to heavenly glory.
The inner (movable) wings show joyful and passion scenes from the lives of Christ and Mary, so changing the altarpiece’s view allowed medieval worshippers to "read" different parts of the mystery of salvation depending on the liturgy.
On the wings visible when the altarpiece is closed are scenes from Mary’s childhood and youth: the meeting of Joachim and Anna, the Birth of Mary, the Presentation of Mary in the Temple. This "weekday" display was shown on ordinary days.
When the wings are opened for feast days you see joyful scenes — the Annunciation, the Nativity, the Adoration of the Magi — and also passion scenes: the Crucifixion, the Deposition, and the Entombment. The narrative solution carries the viewer from beginnings to the glory of Christ and Mary.
Note that the fixed outer wings show reliefs facing the faithful, while the interior of the shrine houses fully three-dimensional sculptures that create a theatrical stage.
Wit Stwosz mixes the sacred with the everyday. Alongside saints you’ll see figures in ecclesiastical and secular dress, faces with individual features, and even physical imperfections — evidence that the sculptor used models from Kraków life.
Look for details: small props, gestures, clothing, and everyday objects. These are not accidental — each element helps you understand the social and cultural context of the era and builds a bridge between medieval viewers and us.
If you have an eye for particulars, try finding the apostles and study their faces — they’re realistic enough that each has a distinct character, which gives the scenes a human dimension.
Ask simple questions: who is looking in which direction, what gestures are the figures making, what objects are they holding. Composition and the direction of gazes often lead the narrative — they point to the scene’s protagonist or suggest relationships between figures.
Watch for repeating motifs — for example, the emphasis on Mary as an intercessor in the work of salvation. Elements such as crowns, angels, and the placement of scenes (predella vs shrine) help you read the theological hierarchy.
Don’t forget color — after recent conservation many polychromes and gilding regained intensity. Color works like a headline in a book: it directs attention and strengthens the scene’s meaning.
The conservation and research work carried out between 2015 and 2021 not only refreshed the forms but also provided new information about techniques, earlier interventions, and paint layers. Using tomography and 3D scanning, conservators could look "under the skin" of the work.
For visitors this is good news — after restoration it’s easier to see original colors and details that were once muted. That makes scene interpretation more reliable and fuller.
Remember that conservation is not about returning everything to a hypothetical original state; conservators aim to preserve authenticity and the traces of the altarpiece’s history.
Come early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the biggest crowds on the Main Market Square. The Basilica and the altarpiece are very popular, and calm and space make careful observation easier.
Check the Basilica’s opening hours and visiting rules — access to the nave can be restricted for services. Bring a short guide or consider a private guided tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz, who can point out the most important spots and share interesting stories.
If you want to see details up close, good photos and a magnifier help, but respect that the Basilica is a living church. Turn off flash and be discreet during services.
Can I photograph the altarpiece? Usually yes — but without flash and according to the Basilica’s rules. It’s best to check current regulations at the entrance.
Is the altarpiece always fully open? No — the full festive display appears on major feasts. On regular days you’ll usually see the closed view; during liturgies and holidays the wings may be opened.
How much time do I need to see the altarpiece well? At least 30–45 minutes lets you calmly view main scenes, details, and information panels. If you want to study details and photograph, plan an hour or more.
Mistake: standing too close and looking at fragments instead of the whole. Tip: take a step back, take in the overall composition, then move in to examine details.
Mistake: focusing only on the central scene. Tip: remember the predella, the wings, and the crowning — the whole ensemble tells the full story.
Mistake: treating every detail as accidental. Tip: most elements are intentional and meaningful — ask a guide or read a brief iconographic guide before your visit.
If you want to stay on the Market after visiting, consider well-reviewed spots: Restauracja Szara and Szara Gęś w Kuchni offer solid menus and elegant interiors — great for a relaxed meal after intense sightseeing.
For traditional Polish atmosphere, Wierzynek and Pod Aniołami are long-established places with menus that match tourists’ expectations for local flavors.
If you prefer café breaks, the Market Square has many popular coffee spots with cakes, perfect for discussing what you’ve just seen. Make reservations for Market Square restaurants in advance — places fill up quickly in high season.
Wit Stwosz introduced realistic elements into the altarpiece — facial features, physical imperfections, and local costumes. This was a deliberate artistic strategy: sacred content becomes closer to ordinary people.
The altarpiece survived many historical trials — including wartime removal and later return to Kraków. Its post-war journey is a fascinating story worth learning as part of the work’s history.
During the renovation modern methods such as 3D scanning and tomography were used, which allowed conservators to discover previously unknown layers and techniques.
For families with children: a short interactive story works best — ask a child to find a few figures (an angel, a king, an animal) and tell what they’re doing. This trains observation and keeps attention.
Visitors with reduced mobility should check access routes at the Basilica — some parts of the presbytery can be difficult, but Basilica staff often assist in arranging comfortable visits.
School groups: prepare a short list of questions and points to find on the altarpiece — this engages students and makes follow-up discussion during class or a debriefing easier.
Wit Stwosz’s altarpiece invites repeated readings: every time you’ll discover a different detail, story, or meaningful fragment. Treat it as a conversation between theology and city life.
If you’d like, I can suggest a short checklist of points to "interrogate" the altarpiece during your visit: start at the predella, then study the central group, then the wings and the crowning — note associations and compare them later with a guide’s interpretation.
Share this article with friends planning a visit to Kraków — sharing discoveries will make the trip more interesting and deeper.
If you dream of a calm, insightful guided visit to St. Mary’s Basilica and other Kraków treasures, consider booking a private tour with Małgorzata Kasprowicz. She will help plan your route, advise the best time to visit, arrange tickets and restaurant reservations, and offer support in Polish and for international guests.
Małgorzata can tailor a visit to your needs — from a short meeting at Wit Stwosz’s altarpiece to full-day trips with transport and bookings. Reach out to her tour service to plan the ideal visit.
