When you enter St. Mary's Basilica it is hard not to fix your eyes on the enormous wooden altarpiece commonly known as Veit Stoss's Altar. This fifteenth-century sculptural monstrance impresses not only with its size but with the density of its detail: the structure includes well over 200 figures and reaches several meters in both height and width. Created between 1477 and 1489, it has been one of Krakow’s symbols for centuries. In recent years it underwent major conservation work and today can be admired in very good condition.
If you plan to visit the Basilica, know that the experience differs depending on whether the presbytery is open to visitors or a liturgy is taking place. Visitor movement is controlled — tourists usually enter through the south side; the main entrance from the Market Square is left for those participating in prayer.
In the guide below I’ll suggest where in the nave it’s best to stand to see the altar at full scale while also spotting the most interesting sculptural and relief details. I’ll also give practical information about opening hours, tickets, photography rules and common mistakes tourists make.
Veit Stoss's Altar — the interior’s visual centerpiece: a huge wooden retable with numerous sculptures and biblical scenes. Its rich iconography and the sculpting technique mean it’s worth spending time examining scenes up close, paying attention to facial expression and the folds of garments.
Polychromes and paintings — the interior also contains polychrome decorations and paintings that complete the historic character of the church. Nineteenth-century interventions and later restorations are often visible and affect how the whole space is perceived.
Side chapels and tombstones — along the nave you’ll find chapels and historic epitaphs that provide broader context: here you can see traces of different eras, styles and the patronage of Krakow families.
Towers and bells — although access to the tower is organized separately (paid and limited), remember it is from the tower that the hejnal is played on the hour; the tower itself has an interesting history of bells and Renaissance details.
The best place for a first, overall impression is the central axis of the nave, a few steps from the presbytery. Standing centrally you will see the altar’s composition, scale and how it fits into the church’s architecture.
If you want to spot sculptural details (faces, gestures, small attributes), move a little closer but focus on the sides of the central section and the altar’s wings — standing slightly to the side makes it easier to notice reliefs and peripheral scenes without perspective distortion.
Avoid standing right at the presbytery rail inside a crowd — from there it’s easier to lose the overall plan and proportions. If you want a good photo of the whole altarpiece, step back or find a spot in the middle of the nave so you can include the altar from floor to vault.
When the altar is ceremonially ‘opened’ (typically around 11:50 on weekdays) try to arrive 10–15 minutes earlier; crowds form at that moment. On Sundays and holidays the opening times can differ — check hours before you come.
Tourist visits take place during set hours; the area open to visitors usually includes the presbytery and the front part of the nave. Opening times vary by weekday and religious holidays, so it’s always worth checking the current information before your visit.
Tourist entry is paid — the parish sells symbolic donation-tickets called 'cegiełki' (full and reduced versions); proceeds support the upkeep of the church. It’s useful to have some cash with you or check the visitor service point on Plac Mariacki where tickets are usually available.
The tourist entrance is typically from the south side; the main Market Square entrance is left for worshippers and people attending services. During Mass or other ceremonies tourist access may be restricted.
Entry to the tower (the hejnal tower) is organized separately and requires a separate ticket. Places for tower visits are limited and entries take place at set times and in small groups.
The Basilica is a place of worship — keep quiet and show respect. Even if you are visiting as a tourist, adapt your clothing and behaviour to a sacred space — shoulders and knees should be covered.
Photography is usually allowed, but without flash and without tripods; professional equipment or extended photo sessions require permission from the staff. Please turn off camera flashes and phone torches so as not to disturb worshippers or risk damaging delicate altarpiece surfaces with intense light.
Avoid standing on the presbytery rail, entering spaces reserved for worshippers or interrupting ceremonies. Also be mindful of other visitors — suddenly stepping in front of someone else can break the moment.
The quietest times are early afternoon on weekdays just after the presbytery opens or late afternoon before closing. Check opening hours and the time of the ceremonial opening of the altar (usually around 11:50 on weekdays) before you travel.
Avoid peak weekend hours and times just after Masses when worshippers leave and crowds can build up. If you want photos without people, come before or after morning services or visit on a weekday outside high season.
If you plan to climb the tower too, consider arriving early — tower visits can sell out quickly.
Standing only at the main entrance and taking a quick glance — result: you’ll miss seeing the altar in full. Fix: enter via the tourist side entrance (south), and allow at least 20–30 minutes to look around the presbytery properly.
Using flash or a tripod — not only can this be forbidden, it can harm fragile polychromes and sculptures. Fix: photograph without flash, use a steady hand or raise ISO reasonably if your camera allows.
Disturbing liturgy — entering and walking around during Mass is inappropriate. Fix: check the Mass schedule (posted by the parish or at the entrance) and plan your tourist visit outside service times.
The Main Market Square and the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) are literally steps away — after leaving St. Mary’s it’s worth strolling the Square, visiting the Cloth Hall and the surrounding streets to complete your visit to the heart of the city.
Recommended nearby restaurants and cafés popular with visitors: Wierzynek — a historic restaurant with long tradition; Szara (Restaurant Szara) — a popular spot with Polish cuisine and modern touches; Cafe Camelot — a cosy café ideal for dessert and coffee after sightseeing. These places are good choices after an intensive walk around the Old Town.
If you’re planning a later meal or dinner, choose restaurants with good reviews and book ahead in the high season. Small, intimate places just off the Market often offer better value and a calmer atmosphere.
Is entry to the church paid? - Yes, tourist visits require purchasing a donation-ticket ('cegiełka') (full and reduced options). Funds go towards maintenance and conservation.
Can you climb the tower? - Yes, tower entry (the hejnal tower) is separate and requires a separate ticket. Places are limited and visits often run in small groups.
Can I enter during Mass? - Visiting is limited during Mass; parts of the basilica serve worshippers only. Always check the Mass timetable before your visit.
Can I take photos? - Yes, but without flash and without using tripods unless you have permission. Please respect the prayer space and the worshippers.
The hejnal is intentionally cut off — tradition has it that the trumpet call breaks off abruptly to commemorate the medieval trumpeter who was struck while sounding the alarm. It’s one of the strongest symbolic links between the tower and the city’s history.
Veit Stoss’s Altar is more than sculptures — look closely at the precision of details, the division of the wings and the biblical scenes that tell the story of Mary and Jesus. The ceremonial ‘opening’ of the altarpiece is a short ritual and worth waiting for.
A small practical trick: if you want to avoid the biggest crowds during the altar opening, stand diagonally to the central axis — you’ll get a good view of the whole composition and still be able to see side details.
If you want to get the most from your visit to St. Mary’s, arrange a short guided tour with a licensed guide who will explain the historical context of the altarpiece, recall legends and point out elements that are easy to miss. On the zwiedzaniekrakowa.com website you can find contact information for private guide Małgorzata Kasprowicz. Małgorzata can help plan your visit, suggest the best times to come, organize logistics and assist with reservations for accommodation, restaurants and tickets.
If you found this article useful — share it with friends or on social media. When you’re in Krakow and want to visit St. Mary’s without stress and with richer background knowledge, contact Małgorzata Kasprowicz via zwiedzaniekrakowa.com. She will gladly advise and guide you around Krakow, museums and other interesting places and organize practical details. Have a good trip and enjoy admiring St. Mary’s!
