St. Mary's Church in Kraków is more than a city symbol visible from the Main Market Square — its interior hides one of the greatest masterpieces of Gothic sculpture in Europe. The Altar by Veit Stoss amazes with its detail and scale, while the chapels and polychromes tell the story of Kraków from the Middle Ages to modern times.
If you plan to go inside, this guide will point out what to pay attention to, how to organize your visit and how to avoid the most common mistakes tourists make.
The Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, commonly known as St. Mary's Church, was built on the site of earlier churches and developed between the 13th and 15th centuries. Its brick mass and the two unequal towers already tell much about the building's Gothic origins.
The interior of the church reflects centuries of change: Gothic vaults, Renaissance and Baroque fittings in the chapels, and conservation and decorative work from the 19th and 20th centuries. For centuries the church served as the city's parish and was the site of important religious and civic events.
The main reason to go inside is the Altar of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin by Veit Stoss. This monumental wooden retable was carved between 1477 and 1489 and consists of five wings, hundreds of figures and a rich biblical narrative.
Notice how the scenes are arranged: the central scene of the Dormition is surrounded by the apostles; higher registers show scenes from the lives of Mary and Jesus; in the predella you'll find the Tree of Jesse — a genealogical depiction of Christ's ancestors.
I recommend first taking in the whole composition from some distance to read the structure, then moving closer to study the details. The sculptures were carved mainly from limewood, with structural elements in oak and larch. Many figures have individual, expressive faces and small attributes — good eyesight or binoculars help.
Remember that the altar has been conserved many times and survived dramatic moments in history (including removal and hiding during wars). Today it is carefully protected and displayed as part of the basilica visit.
Walls and vaults hide polychromes made by various artists over the centuries. Look out for paintings by Jan Matejko that appear in selected parts of the church, and works by Stanisław Wyspiański, who introduced a modern, symbolic language into some decorations.
Stained glass and choir windows are also important to the interior's scenography. Pay attention to sacred and genealogical motifs and to how light passing through colored glass enlivens sculptures and polychromes.
Conservation work on polychromes and paintings is carried out periodically — thanks to this we can admire both medieval layers and later restorations today.
The basilica has many side chapels in different styles: from Gothic through Renaissance to Baroque. Each chapel has its own story and founders from historic Kraków families.
Among the chapels worth attention are St. Lawrence Chapel, the Chapel of the Transfiguration (originally Corpus Christi), the Chapel of Our Lady of Częstochowa and the Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk. Several chapels contain tombs, epitaphs and interestingly designed altars.
In the individual chapels you will see polychromes by, among others, Jan Bukowski and elements connected with Stanisław Wyspiański. Don't rush — each chapel is a different era and a different story.
St. Mary's Tower is a separate attraction: from its top the hejnal (trumpet signal) has been played every hour for centuries — a sound that became one of Kraków's most recognizable symbols.
Access to the tower is handled separately, usually in groups, and includes steep stairs (several hundred steps). Due to the tower's structure and safety rules it is not fully accessible for people with reduced mobility. The climb can be difficult for small children.
From the tower you get a wonderful view of the Old Town and the roofs of the Main Market Square — a great spot for a short photo session, weather permitting.
St. Mary's Church is an active parish, so tourist visits are allowed during set hours, and parts of the church may be closed during liturgies. It's a good idea to check current opening hours before your visit.
A symbolic entry fee (a 'donation') supports the conservation of the church. Entrance to the tower is paid separately. Ticket offices are located at the service point on St. Mary's Square; in season tower entries are limited and take place in groups.
During the visit please respect silence and the fact that this is a place of worship. Covering shoulders and knees is a polite dress code. Photography without flash is allowed; professional equipment (tripods) may require permission.
Trying to enter through the main doorway during Mass — remember that the main entrance and the chancel are sometimes reserved for worshippers; visitors are asked to use the tourist entrance.
Expecting to see the altar up close all day — the wings and some parts of the altar are only accessible during presentation times; it's best to ask at the service point or ticket desk.
Using flash photography — it can damage delicate surfaces and is usually prohibited. Respect for the place also means avoiding loud conversations and inappropriate behavior.
After an intensive visit it's worth resting in one of the well-regarded restaurants by the Market Square. Notable options include the historic Restauracja Wierzynek, Restaurant Szara by the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), and atmospheric cafés and bistros right next to the basilica.
If you want traditional Polish cuisine in an elegant interior, choose a restaurant with good reviews and consider booking ahead in season. For a quick coffee or cake, local cafés with the Old Town's artistic vibe are recommended.
Remember that the Market Square area can be very crowded at peak tourist times — if you prefer peace, choose an early morning visit or move a few streets away where it is less busy.
Can you enter for free? - Tourist viewing usually requires a small paid entry (a 'donation') which goes toward the basilica's maintenance and conservation. Some parts remain accessible to worshippers without charge.
Can you photograph the altar? - Yes, photography without flash is permitted during normal visits. Some liturgical situations, however, require refraining from photography.
Do you need a reservation for the tower? - Tower visits usually happen in groups at set times; it's best to arrive early or ask at the service point, as online reservations may be limited.
Is the interior wheelchair accessible? - Due to the historic construction and steps, not all parts are fully accessible; if you have special needs, contact the basilica staff in advance.
The legend of the trumpeter struck by an arrow dates from the 18th–20th centuries and was heavily popularized in the interwar period, but the tradition of playing the hejnal goes back much further.
The interior hides small details that are easy to miss: minor epitaphs, memorial plaques and stone tombs of Kraków's former elite — a treasure trove of local history if you take a moment to look.
Some chapels contain copies of famous paintings and icons that were especially meaningful to the city's inhabitants during difficult historical moments.
Choose a morning slot when there are fewer visitors: early morning brings calm and better photos without crowds. After visiting the Altar, stroll slowly through the chapels and finish by climbing the tower if you have the strength and time.
Buy tickets at the service point on St. Mary's Square. If you plan to visit other central attractions (Wawel, museums), plan your time to avoid rushing and to make scheduled entries.
If you want to learn more than what's on the information panels, use the services of a guide — they will tell stories and point out details you might miss on your own.
St. Mary's Church is best discovered attentively, slowly and with curiosity. Every pillar, chapel and sculpture has its story. If you'd like to see the interior through the eyes of someone who shows Kraków with passion and deep local knowledge, get in touch.
Małgorzata Kasprowicz, a guide collaborating with zwiedzaniekrakowa.com, will gladly help you plan your visit: she can lead tours of museums and monuments, arrange logistics and transport, and book tickets, restaurants and accommodation. Contact details are available on the article page at zwiedzaniekrakowa.com.
If you found this article helpful — share it on social media or send it to friends. If you wish, Małgorzata can prepare a personalized Kraków itinerary tailored to your interests.
